November 1-November 7, 2019

Day 68 Friday, November 1:  Well, I have put off exercising as long as I can.  I had good intentions, really I did.  But when we finally got settled in Paris, I just didn’t feel comfortable leaving the kids alone to go exercise, nor did I feel like I had time or that it was the best use of it.  But honestly, the real reason is that I’ve been L-A-Z-Y.  Many days, we walk more than 5 miles and the 3rd floor stairs get me every time, but I haven’t done any real exercise (unless you count curling the large Evian bottles after I fill them).  There is a Bikram studio about 3 blocks away and I sign up for a 10 day pass, thinking I can jump start my way back into shape.  I run there so I won’t be late, which means I’m almost sweating before I even arrive.  Then, once I get set up in the room, I remember what I felt about Bikram when I tried it years ago in Hawaii.  It’s hot.  And it’s hard.  Maybe some of the hardest stuff I’ve even done.  My tights and workout shirt make me stand out against the swimsuit-clad yogis.  I can understand why that’s what they wear.  When you’re done, it’s like you’ve been swimming.  It’s 105 degrees, 26 poses and 90 minutes long.  Thank goodness it was in French so if I felt like taking it easy, I could act like I didn’t understand the instructions.  I swash home after…the trail of sweat behind me.  We gear up for something fun today and decide on the Cite des Sciences et de I’Industrie (the science museum).  This is a pretty cool, hands-on museum, but it is so crowded because of the holiday.  We wait (well, I wait while the kids play) in line for 60 minutes to see a show in their Planetariumre.  Then, when I get to the front of the line, the kids aren’t back yet so we wait another 30 minutes!  Alas, when we finally leave and the golden arches are right outside the museum doors, I cave and that is dinner my friends.  Kids are happy!

Day 69 Saturday, November 2: It’s a cold-ish, grey fall day here in Paris.  The kind of quiet day that is perfect for today’s activity.  We wrap up and head to an area of town that is new to me for lunch at one of those out-of-the-way-but-amazing spots (thank you Robert McKee for the suggestion).  This small spot is dedicated to being creative with whatever is seasonal and whatever they have left over.  Today’s dessert was a beautiful upside-down plum cake.  After, we walk the short few blocks to Pere Lachaise, Paris’ most famed cemetery.  It’s really more like a museum, to be honest.  There’s not a ton of elevation change in central Paris, but the cemetery is set on a block of soft rolling hills, which add even more dimension to the markers and monuments.  A few notables buried here include Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison.  On the first row, we find many WWII monuments and statues.  They are grand and startling in their form, as you can see.  I’m reminded again that we must never forget.  We walk through, the kids in a playful mood, but still trying to honor the dead and marvel at what their loved ones erected to remember them.  It is a beautiful place, but don’t worry about me when I’m gone.  I’ll be home sweet home!  After the cemetery, we stop anywhere that looks interesting and try so many different sweets.  Finally, we come to a shop I’ve been wanting to visit.  It’s a restaurant, fromagerie, butcher, market all rolled into one.  The guy likes the kids (who doesn’t) and has them try so many different cheeses.  Geer even picks one he likes, and his preferred cheese is either on a pizza or a chip.  We go with a traditional French trio starting with Comte, unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese that has been aged for 18 months.  This is sharp and hard and basically something I could live off of.  Geer picks a sheep milk cheese that is just right.  We round it off with a wonderful creamy goat cheese and dinner is served!  We try to go to be early because tomorrow we start the last leg of our marathon touring before we depart.

Day 70 Sunday, November 3: How do these Sunday’s come around so fast?  Being the first Sunday of the month, many museums are free (though many museums are free for the kids any day).  I decide we will take full advantage today.  We start out at the beautiful Musee d’Orsay, housed in an old train station with beautiful windows arched all the way across the top.  The Edgar Degas at the Opera exhibit is on, and that’s what we’ve come to see.  We read a book about the little dancer sculpture and we loved seeing her in person.  And the impressionistic paintings, saturated with color, of the orchestra and stage and dancers were all so beautiful. 

We left there and went straight to church.  Following the service, we met our Australian friends for our last lunch to see Raphael.  We had pizza and salad at a lovely Italian spot, and I had my first Cafe Gourmand, in this case a trio of mini desserts of the chef’s choosing with a coffee.  Yes, please.  The kids played Uno at the table while trying not to disrupt the proper diners.  I loved talking to Laure and Andrew and trading stories about family and school and vacation and work in two worlds apart.  I really hope we see them again one day.  At their advice, we head to the Rodin museum after, and the sun even came out to warm us up a little.  The Rodin museum had a treasure hunt for the kids via a pamphlet and an audio guide.  We had a good time checking things off their list and viewing the many sculptures and information in the museum and the gardens.  I especially loved seeing the Thinker and the Gates of Hades and the 5 men sculpture from a story of the 100 years war called The Burghers of Calais.  We really enjoyed this lovely museum and gardens.  On our way home, we stopped by Carson’s new favorite shop, the Lush concept store that opened just across the street from our apartment.  They are considering hiring her.  We decide on a face mask we will both enjoy and head home to pamper ourselves after a long day of touring around.

Day 71 Monday, November 4:  School days again!  We planned to stay inside all day, but guess what?  It’s GORGEOUS out.  So, we pack a picnic and head to Place des Vosges for a yummy picnic lunch and window shopping.  Then back to the books!

Day 72 Tuesday, November 5:  We have been waiting for this day!  Nan wanted us to get something special in France, but we are out of room in the inn, so we decided to DO something special.  A Macaron class and tour of the Garnier Opera House!  The class was family style, so parents and kids participated and we learned secrets of the carefully-crafted, 2 euro macaron.  I just LOVE these cookies and could eat a dozen at a time, which means 24 euro, uhoh!  I have made them before (some may recall my attempt at Geer’s 3rd birthday party, after we returned from Paris 7 or so years ago), but now I feel ready!  We leave the class feeling confident, grab some lunch and play around in the beautiful Galeries Lafayette before heading over to the Opera House.  This impressive building was commissioned by Napoleon III as part of Paris’ reconstruction in the 1860’s.  There was a competition for the design, and an unknown Charles Garnier won.  He spared NO expense, and 15 years later it was inaugurated.  It’s a super lavish place…a place to see and be seen.  Kind of like the Flora Bama, amiright?  A falling chandelier, the building itself, the underground lake and cellars inspired the novel The Phantom of the Opera.  Because of a performance that evening, we were unable to see the actual theater, but I loved this tour! 

We meander home, and head over to our playground friend’s house for another Raclette dinner.  Two of her grandchildren the same age as C&G joined us, and the kids had a blast!  They laughed and laughed and ate their weight in cheese and potatoes.  I was able to talk more with Pauline and her husband and hear about their life.  Pauline (like my mother-in-law) knits.  She (like my mother and my mother-in-law) is busy and spends much of her time helping the less fortunate in her midst.  She teaches a free knitting class every week to homeless students and she serves food to homeless and paying customers as well.  She does this at a place called Le Troisieme Cafe.  After asking some questions, I find out that this tiny cafe employees a few staff that truly need this work.  Volunteers come daily to serve the food to the paying customers and, later in the day, any homeless who need a meal.  Supporters buy a yearly membership to help cover the cost of the mission, then they have the option to come dine here.  They also contribute by offering their skill and knowledge to the homeless in the program with classes and clinics.  What a neat combination of outreach and commerce.  Naturally, I want to go, so we make plans to meet there tomorrow. 

Day 73 Wednesday, November 6:  We pick up Pauline and head to the Cafe.  It’s tiny.  Maybe a counter with 6 seats and another 18 or so seats at tables.  On Wednesday, a talented volunteer makes the desserts, so I’m excited!  For 50 euro, all 4 of us have lunch, wine, cokes, coffee and dessert.  Any tips are saved for the mission.  The food is DEVINE.  Probably the best lunch I had.  I am so thankful for this experience.  This place, and their outreach, is totally off the map.  It’s not flashy, not drawing much attention that I can see.  But they are quietly, and happily, plodding along to enrich and hopefully change the course of life for some that are not as fortunate as others.  Love it!  We say our goodbye’s to Pauline, and vow to see each other again in Paris and/or in New Orleans, where they visit often.  Did I mention that Pauline was a Lawyer?  And a pilot?  And a snow skier and a mother at age 18.  And a yogi?  She is one interesting lady.  We head to our last choir practice.  The kids had a great time.  Geer, the only boy at this practice because Raphael is out, finished the practice chasing the girls all around the church with squeals of delight.  He’s a charmer.  We walk to the YSL museum.  We enjoyed learning about the life of the famed designer and seeing some of his creations.  See the photo below: a facebook picture I thought maybe my MIL could knit and then one of YSL famous runway costumes.  Not much has changed! 

We walk the Champs-Elysees towards the Carousel to meet the McLaughlins for a special dinner at Le Souffle.  Recommended by a friend at home, this French gem did not disappoint. Almost everything was souffle, and I had a hard time explaining it to the kids-just something you have to try!  So, we all got the menu, featuring 3 SOUFFLES.  Yes, 3.  A starter, a main and a dessert.  We played the manners game, giving and subtracting points for good and bad manners.  This was needed as we were at a fine dining establishment.  It was a long, delicious meal.  Was I surprised I finished all of my food?  Not really:)

Day 74 Thursday, November 7:  Davinci Day!  We bought tickets to this new exhibit at the Louvre and have been looking forward to it.  Most of Davinci’s great works all in one place.  We notice a special virtual reality station while we wait and I go to check it out.  It’s by appointment only, and you must be over 13, but because they are so special, she let us all do it!  This was one of the highlights for me.  It was better than the Avatar ride at Disney.  I can’t explain the detail of the Mona Lisa and the setting of the imagined sitting for the portrait.  365 degrees of images come to life about his most famous work, then a flight through the region.  It was indescribable and I know I’m not doing it justice.  Just amazing.  Then the exhibit itself was short and sweet, accompanied by an audio guide that gave many details of the artist and his works.  I think the kids liked it, too. We had treats and shopped in the museum gift store and headed to the Tuilleries for our last playground fun.  Kids found a gangle of French girls and Geer pushed them all on a merry-go-round thing while they laughed and laughed.  We had dinner at our landlord’s Italian restaurant…Carson wanted one more Burrata.  At home, we try to wrap up some school, but our desire to keep is fading and our desire to be in the real classroom is growing.

November 8-November 13, 2019

Day 75 Friday, November 8:  The kids both agree that their favorite meal was at Restaurant de La Cordonnerie, so we head there…One Last Time (enter soundtrack).  We sit in the kitchen and watch the chef and owner prepare our meal…veal and perfect fries and pear mouse.  It was everything we remembered from our first trip with Nan.  I ask the kids if the trip was what they imagined, and they couldn’t really remember what they imagined it would be.  So, NOTE TO SELF:  Next time we take a trip like this, make notes of what you think it will be like and then compare to what it really is.  We head to the Grand Palais to meet the McLaughlins for a photography exhibit.  I love the Grand Palais…It was built for the 1900 expo and is a marvel of glass and Art Nouveau-style ironwork.  But I had never been inside.  This was a huge photography exhibit and we spent a few hours viewing award-winning photos and photo art.  When we get back to our Metro stop and walk past Le BHV, we see one window that is open and a few people are watching.  A gentleman tells us to hang around and soon, the beautiful display comes to life!  We were talking to the manager who designs every element of every Christmas window at this impressive department store, and the puppeteer who made the automation happen.  He tells us that his father and grandfather are both puppeteers, so it’s a family business.  They were only testing the windows and we were there at just the right time.  The puppeteer tells me that only the Printemps windows are open so far (he did their puppets, too).  What a cool experience! On our way home, there was a party at the Ugg store near our apartment, and we enjoyed some truffles, champagne and Cham-pomme for the kids.  They also had a live band.  In the apartment, we opened the windows to enjoy the band and hear their current song-Sweet Home Alabama!  Geer hangs out the window singing, and I know it’s time. 

Day 76 Saturday, November 9: I decide to make one attempt at flea marketing.  I left the kids at home to chill and I booked it to the Aligre Market.  It was a medium-sized market with a huge variety of things.  It didn’t take me long to realize that I don’t have what it takes to do this.  Some of these booths have precious items that I don’t even recognize.  Some look like my junk drawer.  I moved over to the amazing fresh food market…more my speed.  I wandered my way home and marvel at the many places close to my apartment that I have never noticed before.  We shop around our place for a few souvenirs before we head out to the McLaughlins.  We meet up and head to Printemps, one of the few department stores that has already unveiled their Christmas windows.  We join the throngs who are walking past, stopping to view these marvels.  While the Le BHV windows were traditional French Christmas, Printemps is more playful and reminds me of a muppets special.  Both were a treat to view.  At the McLaughlins, we settle in for our last sleep-over.  We have a great meal, get to hear all about Will’s fight for life in the first few years and watch the kids go after each other in a paper airplane war.  Then the girls put on a face mask and settle in to watch 13 Going On 30.  How have I never seen this movie?  

Day 77 Sunday, November 10:  We wake up to crepes, nutella, whip cream, fruit, juice and coffee!  What a treat.  We all get ready and head out for our last Sunday worship at the American Church in Paris.  It was a nice service, and when it was over, we stuck around for the sanctuary tour they offer monthly.  Our guide is SO knowledgeable.  I can’t remember, but I think she has been in Paris for 30 years.  There is tons of history about this church, one of the first American Protestant Churches on foreign soil, started in 1814.  The current building was built and dedicated in 1931.  In WWII, the Germans allowed services to continue, but once the Americans joined, they began looking for American citizens and came for the pastor.  He saw them coming and hid behind the organ pipes.  There are 6 carvings of great reformers, Pope John XXIII, John Wesley, St. Paul, Martin Luther, John Calvin and Martin Luther King, Jr.  The stained-glass windows are most impressive, and tell the story of the church, including the reformation and WWI and WWII.  The 2 most notable windows are Tiffany windows created for one of the parishioner’s wife.  They are stunning and have so much detail compared to the traditional primary color windows.  I absolutely LOVED our time at this church and this tour.  After, we walk over to the American Library and sadly close our borrowing rights (and get our final 1 euro hot cocoa). We part ways from our friends and walk to the Eiffel Tower one more time.  In the photo, Carson seems sad, Geer seems happy, and I am just resigned to the fact that it’s the end of the world as we know it.  We walk the tower’s 130 year anniversary exhibit and find out the tower will be painted yellowish-brown soon!  It will look totally different when we see it next.  At home, we start the task of packing.  I won’t bore you any longer, but this will be no easy task!

Day 78 Monday, November 11:  The last day! It came as quickly as the first.  Wow, how time flies.  I am overwhelmed with the experience and the time we’ve been afforded together.  So many museums, parks, exhibits, historic sites, buildings, friends, families, walks, rides, tears and smiles.  I decide to put on one more smile for the kids and we wake up early to LIME BIKE!  In the cold, and the rain.  It’s a Armistice Day, so it’s quiet early and we have the streets to ourselves.  It’s glorious!  Those 15 minutes are so fun and special.  We scooter over to Stohrer, the oldest (and some say the best) bakery in Paris.  We go classic with Croissant, Pain au Chocolat and Madeline.  All are devine.  It’s a beautiful bakery, but no seating so we walk down to the Laduree for a coffee and a seat (and, who are we kidding, one last macaron).  The designer of this new shop comes in and asks if we like the place.  YEA!  We do!  We walk by the Lego store again and spend some time getting more souvenirs at a really nice Monoprix.  The kids settle in at home and I book it around town getting all my last minute things.  The sunset is beautiful this day, and the moon is full.  Our friends come over for a clean-out-the-fridge dinner and they pack up what’s left, thankfully!  We get our last ice cream at Amarino and do something totally unexpected.  We go to the Jazz Club around the corner.  We have passed it countless times, and eventually Carson started asking if we could go.  The hours are strange and there’s no info online but one day we were able to check in to make sure it was appropriate for kids.  It is, so we check in and find ourselves in an underground cellar surrounded by arched stone walls and a 3 pc band.  It was a jam session, so they just played and we listened.  The kids were so tired, but it was a totally new experience for all of us!  When we left and said goodbye to the McLaughlins for the last time on French soil (we WILL see them again).

Day 79 Tuesday, November 12:

We packed up all we had left of the fun and souvenirs and memories and clothes and school into bags that we could carry, said goodbye to our Marais Mansion one last time and did the heavy heaving of those bags down 3 floors of winding stairs to the pre-dawn streets.  Turns out, they were cleaning the streets on this day, and the uber driver we called was NOT happy with our extra luggage.  We tried to explain that we would do the lifting:/. As we trailed the street sweepers, I began to get anxious about leaving and was praying that we could just get there in time.  Driver was an unhappy fellow and his choice of music showed it.  It wasn’t the parting I imagined…plus he took us through a route I didn’t really recognize.  Finally, we get on the right road and I can see our transportation ahead.  Kids and I talked about our favorite things: meals, museums, friends, parks, adventures.  I’m not sure they realized the magnitude of the book that we were leaving behind, but I sure did.  Thankful to arrive at the airport and get shuttled through customs and to our gate…many Americans were there headed back as well.  We had our final Chocolat Au Pain and coffee and boarded the plane. ‘Merica, we’re back!