August 25-August 29, 2019

I should start by saying that I’m not sure how the idea materialized.  I heard a friend, Kelly Walker, talk about traveling with her young children to many different countries for longer than a vacation, and I was intrigued.  I love being with my kids, and now that they are in school and have activities, the time with them is starting to seem shorter and shorter.  One day we were on “Sand Island” (a little sandy spot in the Bon Secour River) and Carson and Edgar started talking about traveling.  Carson has loved Paris, the “Hi-ful” tower…or at least the thought of it all, since Edgar and I visited 7 years ago.  Anyway, the idea was born, and… 

Sunday, August 25, 2019, after what seemed like months and months of preparation (but still not enough), the departure day had finally arrived.  We were packed, 1 medium size suitcase for the kids, 1 huge suitcase for me, 1 small extra suitcase full of Geer’s school materials, a printer, etc. and a heavy backpack for us each. Maybe we packed too much, but we truly tried to bring what we needed most and could reuse, wash, match with other items to form outfits that didn’t look too touristy.  (It didn’t take long, though, to notice that we do infact look like tourists with our back packs and fanny packs.). Anyway, off to Pensacola, where Edgar took us to our final American meal at…Waffle House!  It was delicious.  After a few tearful goodbyes, we screened in and boarded.  Easy flight to Charlotte where we hurriedly made our connection and met up with my mom, Nan.  Thankfully, we were able to switch seats to be all together on one big 4-person row.  In-flight entertainment, drink service, snacks, a hot meal, iPads, etc., kept us from getting all but a few hours of sleep.  In no time, we were meeting our driver, Sothiro, outside CDG.  Thirty minutes later, at about 7am on a Monday Morning in Paris (but still Midnight in Montgomery), we were dropped off at our first stop, 7 Rue Lagrange, just South of Notre Dame.  A morning full of sunshine, but too early to get into our apartment.  So, we lugged the luggage down the street to Cafe Panis where we had our first petit déjeuner, breakfast. Espresso, Croissant with butter and jelly.  Kids had a Nutella Crepe and OJ. Perfect.  Shortly after, our Paris for Rent host called to say we could drop our luggage and return a few hours later to check in.  Thankfully, this young man was spending his summer working as a host for Paris for Rent.  He’s from Hawaii but speaks French and English-yay!  We dropped our bags and headed out for a stroll through some tiny cobblestone streets lined with chocolate shops, tea shops, candy stores, etc. We stopped at an ATM and Nan tried to get 200,000 Euros out instead of 200, and her card was confiscated.  This did provide a scare!  They were unable to get the card out of the machine so we had to come back hours later.  Turns out her ATM card doesn’t work in France:/  Anyway,  we made our way to Luxembourg Gardens and walked around just a bit.  Lots of people out and about early on a Monday in August.  They were filming a movie starring an American actress (not sure who) so we couldn’t go far.  Plus we had to get back to the apartment, which took some maneuvering.  The apartment was really beautiful, even though it was above a souvenir stand.  Up the tiny elevator to the 4th floor, it opened into a bright room all in white with nice moldings and huge windows.  Two bedrooms, two interesting bathrooms and a nice table in the kitchen.  But no air, and it was 95!  Our host helped us make a reservation for Wednesday night at a restaurant recommended by some of mom’s friends who have been their ofter.  So, we had some plans!  Our stay in Paris the first few days was hot hot hot.  We call home and talk to Edgar and to Dad.  We unpack, we set the kids up to do some school work (virtual school is not for the faint of heart…LOTS of prodding and poking and in general, bribery to get it done.  I have failed a few 4th grade tests myself!).  They got quiet and then soon we noticed they were both asleep!  On top of their computers.  So much for getting caught up.  We let them rest a little and Mom and I tried to make a list of things we wanted to do over the next 3 1/2 days.  Too many things, too little time. Plus, I had no idea how to best get around, only have 100 bits (or blips or something) of data a month so I need to limit my maps use when not on wifi.  Basically, we were starting at square 1.  But on the top of our list was the Iron Lady, so soon we set off (after retrieving the ATM card). It was too far to walk in this heat, so we caught an Uber (more data:/) to the tower.  It was a nice ride and we could see the Seine, so many HUGE HUGE beautiful old buildings that are now museums and government offices.  We arrived, took a few photos, purchased the obligatory Eiffel Towel key chains 5 for 1 Euro (so friends, you know what you’re getting), found our way to the elevator line because really we were all walked out.  We met 2 nice sisters from Kuwait in the line.  One was a prosecuting attorney and the other was studying civil engineering.  They shared macrons with us and asked lots of questions and answered lots, too, and took many pictures with Carson and Geer…they are cute!   NOTE TO SELF:  Don’t go during a heat wave.  Elevator line seemed longer than the walking line.  Once you get up the first elevator, you have to stand in line for the second. Then there are the lines to get down.  Basically don’t use the elevator unless you absolutely have to.  BUT, the views were amazing!  You just have to do it! 

When we finally descended, the plaza was more calm.  We walked around a bit more and finally caught a cab back to our neck of the woods, which was bustling by this time.  I guess where we were staying is a serious night-time attraction because people were everywhere.  We were starved, so we went back to the tiny street area and restaurants were bursting from every side with their promoters chasing you down the ally telling you about how great their food is.  Geer was not comfortable with this…not at all.  We were finally lured in by a handsome promoter who promised free wine and soda for the kids.  We were so hungry that it didn’t really matter.  Food was fine.  Another NOTE TO SELF: Don’t let yourself get too hungry.  They aren’t in a hurry to bring water, take your order, or bring your check so just don’t get your hopes up that this won’t take too long.  It will.  But Geer enjoyed joking with the host of the restaurant, the free wine was nice, and we were full and happy and tired when we left.  It was, however, almost 11 at this point.  So we get home, get cold showers, lay on top of the covers and try to sleep with fans whirring and Paris sounds coming through the open windows.  My mind is racing about how un-equipped I really am to navigate and care for my kids in a country foreign to me.  I’m scared.  But I’m so thankful my mom is here and I just pray and thank God for protecting us like He always does.  Somehow I sleep on and off. 

Day 2 Tuesday, August 27th: 

We decided to try our hand at the Metro.  After walking around the corner to get a few groceries and fresh pastries, I return home to get the crowd up and dressed.  It’s still hot.  I look up the instructions on my phone map.  We have just a quick walk to the station.  The station is under construction and it takes a bit to get to the right one.  Anyway, we get down there and try to buy tickets.  Nan’s card won’t work:/. We finally get the tickets and of course as Carson is trying to “help” Nan through, she gets stuck!  Poor Nan!  It always happens to her. Anyway, we arrive near Sacre Couer, but this is a rough part of town.  I’ve never seen so many barber shops, nail salons, extensions, weaves, etc.  It was interesting but overwhelming. We didn’t know which way was up and of course my data was ticking…I can’t remember if we asked or what, but we headed up a steep grade and finally got to what looked like the right place.  I’ve read their is a Funicular, but I didn’t know how to get on and I heard it was hot.  I couldn’t get any hotter.  So, we took the stairs up up up and there it was…a breathtakingly beautiful smooth white Cathedral.  The views up to the church are beautiful and the view from the Cathedral down over the city was beautiful as well.  We took some photos, spent an hour or so in the Cathedral filled with monuments and art and stained glass and architectural intrigue.  NOTE TO SELF: You can’t get a tour inside, but some information in English would have made it more meaningful.  Then, we walk toward the town of Montmartre and are literally trapped by artists who insist on drawing Geer…and Carson…and me.  We didn’t know how to say no!  We actually said no, but they drew on.  Anyway, these are not the talented artists and our art portraits are of people who barely resemble us.  I gave them a tiny sum, they were sorely insulted, we quickly exited and Geer was even more uncomfortable than ever! 

We met a nice man from the US who had married a French woman and moved to Montmartre a few years earlier.  He gave us advice and the kids played with his adorable puppy, Sparkles!  Actually her name is French for sparkles, but we couldn’t remember that.  He directed us to the Montmartre Museum, which was lovely (but hot).  More walking, more art, more stairs, more pictures.  Finally we get to the square where the better artists were sketching family members or painting their own renditions of the view toward the Eiffel Tower or creating shadow portraits.  We enjoyed strolling this area and found a better Metro station to carry us home.  On the route, we found a great boutique where every item was designed and made in France.  Beautiful things!  And the kids had their first Bubble Tea…basically kool-aid with boba gummy bubbles???  I don’t know what it was, but it was good.  When we get back to Paris proper, we wind our way back to the river for an evening River Boat Cruise.  It was nice a breezy and a break from all the walking, even if we couldn’t quite understand everything the guide was saying.  NOTE TO SELF: If the river cruise is important, maybe book a good one.  If you just want the sights and a break, any seems to be fine.  We were pretty hungry…maybe even hangry at this point.  We walked back to our bustling area, up and down the tiny streets and found a pizza restaurant that was able to make ours to-go.  Down the street again to get more water and a few snacks and then we headed back to the apartment.  Might I add it was still so hot you could cure meat on the streets.  We get all our stuff up the lift, onto the tiny landing to find that it was 11 pm and the key did’t work in the apartment.  Geer tried, Carson tried, Mom tried, I tried.  It just wouldn’t go in!  My mind was racing, we were hungry and a little scared.  Mom kept us calm (sometimes she panics, and then when you need it most she is the voice of reason).  We all go back downstairs because it’s too hot and the light shut off on the landing.  Mom stays with the kids and I head back up, turn on my cell service (tickticktick on those minutes), and try the rental agency. As soon as I connect with them, I start fiddling with the lock and find that the face of the lock was twisted and not allowing the key in all the way.  Thank you God for watching out for us again!  We get in, get our sweaty clothes off and devour the pizza and hit the hay. 

Day 3 Wednesday, August 28th:

I’m never going to keep up with this journal…I’m so far behind.  So, I’m going to keep it short:  On Wednesday, we got going kinda late again.  Tried to eat a breakfast and coffee in the room and I packed up our biggest bag with things I thought we wouldn’t need for the next stops in Cannes and London.  It was so hot that I packed most of our jackets and long sleeve along with school materials.  We took an Uber to my new landlords Restaurant and he allowed us to store the extra bag in his office.  He wasn’t there, but we were able to walk around the corner and see where the apartment is located.  We also purchased some picnic items for lunch.  From there, we couldn’t get maps to work, so we took off on foot towards the Louvre.  We walked and we walked and we walked.  Finally, we saw signs for it, but where was the entrance?  It’s mammoth!   After circling it, we see the triangular windows and enter, have our picnic, take a few pics.  Then, we search tirelessly for the “Carrosel”, which was to provide a shortcut inside.  If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it’s hard to find.  We get in, get caught up in the Louvre gift shop, which is great in itself!  We luckily get moved to a fast ticket line and quickly get in.  It’s so huge!  And the free guide doesn’t give much information.  NOTE TO SELF: If you really want to get the most out of this museum, you need a guide or a book or something to direct you.  We wandered one hall, saw some unbelievable marble statues including the .  We viewed the ancient Egyptian artifacts and the real mummy, sphinxes, and more.  As we were running out of time, and steam, and patience for the crowds, we wind our way back to the hall with the Mona Lisa.  With queue after queue, we finally get there only to be ushered through like cattle with just enough time to snatch a picture.  Not the moment I had wished for, but we saw it!  The kids didn’t mind-they actually loved it!  Took about an hour to get out and at this point, we needed to be on our way to our one reservation.  We hopped in a taxi and I showed him the address I had looked up while on the free wifi at the Louvre.  I admit, I had mapped it earlier and it didn’t look far at all, but this cab ride was taking a while!  Finally, he said there was road closure, but our destination was just down this street on the right.  We pay, merci, and hop on out.  A few steps in, the kids eyes are wide and they are walking close to me.  I glance at a few of the shops and I’m confused.  Black curtains, neon lights, peep show signs.  PEEP SHOWS?!?  Where are we?  We get to the restaurant, La Cordonnerrie, and it’s a total dive bar. We ask about the kitchen (because that’s what we know of this place…you eat in the kitchen where the owner/chef makes your meal).  They say of course, they have a kitchen and can feed us.  This is wrong.  We quickly make our way back to the main street, hail another cab, use up those plan minutes to find the REAL. restaurant.  NOTE TO SELF:  Double check where you are going!  Anyway, at final arrival, the meal is lovely (even if it is HOT in the kitchen).  I had the best veal dish with perfect French fries.  The chef/owner, Hugo, talks to us when he’s not working tirelessly to create every meal all by himself.  This was his father’s restaurant and even though he didn’t really want to be chained to this job, it happened.  He cares about every dish, every experience.  And don’t ask for ketchup or special preparation…he feels pretty passionately that the way it is served is the right way.  I agree!  Taxi home.  NOTE TO SELF: If you ask the restaurant to call a taxi, the taxi adds on a charge.  I guess this is fine.  We fall into bet hot and full and happy and thankful we made it!

Day 4 Thursday, August 29th:  We really have somewhere to be.  We purchased Versailles tickets early and it’s a timed entry so we need to get up and going.  I think I have my directions.  A few trains later we do arrive (and it wasn’t too bad!).  At Versailles, we set a meeting point at the entry, in case anyone is lost.  This place is huge, too!  We walk through, grab our headset and get lost in room after room of paintings, portraits, models, history of this royal palace turned museum.  After room 10, we can’t find Nan.  I assure the kids she’s either ahead or behind. So we speak up and don’t see her.  Then we slow down and don’t see her.  We get to the hall of mirrors-love!  Still no nan.  So we exit, check our meeting point, look around, try to call.  We decide to check the main meeting point again before we go to the gardens (which are so huge that you could loose yourself in there).  She’s there!  So it does work!  That’s how people did it long ago, I guess!  We reunite and take to the gardens, have a snack and hit the subway back.  We had hoped to do some shopping, but it’s really hard to fit that in with everything else.  We decide to go the Galleries Lafayette, which I know to be a beautiful department store.  They have an awesome rooftop view of the city and a few quick service restaurants.  We set a meeting place after eating because we only have half an hour to shop.  We get to the meeting spot, but no Nan.  They ask us to leave out a different, main door because it’s closing time.  I assume Nan has them captive and is buying something exciting (probably for someone else because that’s what she does).  We wait and wait.  Finally, they come back out to get us and reunite us with her.  They put her out on the other side of the block.  She was a little rattled at this because we didn’t have a way to communicate.  It is hard like this.  Anyway, Uber took us home to pack up and say goodbye to Paris for now.  Today we have lots to be grateful for.  No one was hurt or permanently lost:).