I should start by saying that I’m not sure how the idea materialized.  I heard a friend, Kelly Walker, talk about traveling with her young children to many different countries for longer than a vacation, and I was intrigued.  I love being with my kids, and now that they are in school and have activities, the time with them is starting to seem shorter and shorter.  One day we were on “Sand Island” (a little sandy spot in the Bon Secour River) and Carson and Edgar started talking about traveling.  Carson has loved Paris, the “Hi-ful” tower…or at least the thought of it all, since Edgar and I visited 7 years ago.  Anyway, the idea was born, and… 

August 25-August 29, 2019

I should start by saying that I’m not sure how the idea materialized.  I heard a friend, Kelly Walker, talk about traveling with her young children to many different countries for longer than a vacation, and I was intrigued.  I love being with my kids, and now that they are in school and have activities, the time with them is starting to seem shorter and shorter.  One day we were on “Sand Island” (a little sandy spot in the Bon Secour River) and Carson and Edgar started talking about traveling.  Carson has loved Paris, the “Hi-ful” tower…or at least the thought of it all, since Edgar and I visited 7 years ago.  Anyway, the idea was born, and… 

Sunday, August 25, 2019, after what seemed like months and months of preparation (but still not enough), the departure day had finally arrived.  We were packed, 1 medium size suitcase for the kids, 1 huge suitcase for me, 1 small extra suitcase full of Geer’s school materials, a printer, etc. and a heavy backpack for us each. Maybe we packed too much, but we truly tried to bring what we needed most and could reuse, wash, match with other items to form outfits that didn’t look too touristy.  (It didn’t take long, though, to notice that we do infact look like tourists with our back packs and fanny packs.). Anyway, off to Pensacola, where Edgar took us to our final American meal at…Waffle House!  It was delicious.  After a few tearful goodbyes, we screened in and boarded.  Easy flight to Charlotte where we hurriedly made our connection and met up with my mom, Nan.  Thankfully, we were able to switch seats to be all together on one big 4-person row.  In-flight entertainment, drink service, snacks, a hot meal, iPads, etc., kept us from getting all but a few hours of sleep.  In no time, we were meeting our driver, Sothiro, outside CDG.  Thirty minutes later, at about 7am on a Monday Morning in Paris (but still Midnight in Montgomery), we were dropped off at our first stop, 7 Rue Lagrange, just South of Notre Dame.  A morning full of sunshine, but too early to get into our apartment.  So, we lugged the luggage down the street to Cafe Panis where we had our first petit déjeuner, breakfast. Espresso, Croissant with butter and jelly.  Kids had a Nutella Crepe and OJ. Perfect.  Shortly after, our Paris for Rent host called to say we could drop our luggage and return a few hours later to check in.  Thankfully, this young man was spending his summer working as a host for Paris for Rent.  He’s from Hawaii but speaks French and English-yay!  We dropped our bags and headed out for a stroll through some tiny cobblestone streets lined with chocolate shops, tea shops, candy stores, etc. We stopped at an ATM and Nan tried to get 200,000 Euros out instead of 200, and her card was confiscated.  This did provide a scare!  They were unable to get the card out of the machine so we had to come back hours later.  Turns out her ATM card doesn’t work in France:/  Anyway,  we made our way to Luxembourg Gardens and walked around just a bit.  Lots of people out and about early on a Monday in August.  They were filming a movie starring an American actress (not sure who) so we couldn’t go far.  Plus we had to get back to the apartment, which took some maneuvering.  The apartment was really beautiful, even though it was above a souvenir stand.  Up the tiny elevator to the 4th floor, it opened into a bright room all in white with nice moldings and huge windows.  Two bedrooms, two interesting bathrooms and a nice table in the kitchen.  But no air, and it was 95!  Our host helped us make a reservation for Wednesday night at a restaurant recommended by some of mom’s friends who have been their ofter.  So, we had some plans!  Our stay in Paris the first few days was hot hot hot.  We call home and talk to Edgar and to Dad.  We unpack, we set the kids up to do some school work (virtual school is not for the faint of heart…LOTS of prodding and poking and in general, bribery to get it done.  I have failed a few 4th grade tests myself!).  They got quiet and then soon we noticed they were both asleep!  On top of their computers.  So much for getting caught up.  We let them rest a little and Mom and I tried to make a list of things we wanted to do over the next 3 1/2 days.  Too many things, too little time. Plus, I had no idea how to best get around, only have 100 bits (or blips or something) of data a month so I need to limit my maps use when not on wifi.  Basically, we were starting at square 1.  But on the top of our list was the Iron Lady, so soon we set off (after retrieving the ATM card). It was too far to walk in this heat, so we caught an Uber (more data:/) to the tower.  It was a nice ride and we could see the Seine, so many HUGE HUGE beautiful old buildings that are now museums and government offices.  We arrived, took a few photos, purchased the obligatory Eiffel Towel key chains 5 for 1 Euro (so friends, you know what you’re getting), found our way to the elevator line because really we were all walked out.  We met 2 nice sisters from Kuwait in the line.  One was a prosecuting attorney and the other was studying civil engineering.  They shared macrons with us and asked lots of questions and answered lots, too, and took many pictures with Carson and Geer…they are cute!   NOTE TO SELF:  Don’t go during a heat wave.  Elevator line seemed longer than the walking line.  Once you get up the first elevator, you have to stand in line for the second. Then there are the lines to get down.  Basically don’t use the elevator unless you absolutely have to.  BUT, the views were amazing!  You just have to do it! 

When we finally descended, the plaza was more calm.  We walked around a bit more and finally caught a cab back to our neck of the woods, which was bustling by this time.  I guess where we were staying is a serious night-time attraction because people were everywhere.  We were starved, so we went back to the tiny street area and restaurants were bursting from every side with their promoters chasing you down the ally telling you about how great their food is.  Geer was not comfortable with this…not at all.  We were finally lured in by a handsome promoter who promised free wine and soda for the kids.  We were so hungry that it didn’t really matter.  Food was fine.  Another NOTE TO SELF: Don’t let yourself get too hungry.  They aren’t in a hurry to bring water, take your order, or bring your check so just don’t get your hopes up that this won’t take too long.  It will.  But Geer enjoyed joking with the host of the restaurant, the free wine was nice, and we were full and happy and tired when we left.  It was, however, almost 11 at this point.  So we get home, get cold showers, lay on top of the covers and try to sleep with fans whirring and Paris sounds coming through the open windows.  My mind is racing about how un-equipped I really am to navigate and care for my kids in a country foreign to me.  I’m scared.  But I’m so thankful my mom is here and I just pray and thank God for protecting us like He always does.  Somehow I sleep on and off. 

Day 2 Tuesday, August 27th: 

We decided to try our hand at the Metro.  After walking around the corner to get a few groceries and fresh pastries, I return home to get the crowd up and dressed.  It’s still hot.  I look up the instructions on my phone map.  We have just a quick walk to the station.  The station is under construction and it takes a bit to get to the right one.  Anyway, we get down there and try to buy tickets.  Nan’s card won’t work:/. We finally get the tickets and of course as Carson is trying to “help” Nan through, she gets stuck!  Poor Nan!  It always happens to her. Anyway, we arrive near Sacre Couer, but this is a rough part of town.  I’ve never seen so many barber shops, nail salons, extensions, weaves, etc.  It was interesting but overwhelming. We didn’t know which way was up and of course my data was ticking…I can’t remember if we asked or what, but we headed up a steep grade and finally got to what looked like the right place.  I’ve read their is a Funicular, but I didn’t know how to get on and I heard it was hot.  I couldn’t get any hotter.  So, we took the stairs up up up and there it was…a breathtakingly beautiful smooth white Cathedral.  The views up to the church are beautiful and the view from the Cathedral down over the city was beautiful as well.  We took some photos, spent an hour or so in the Cathedral filled with monuments and art and stained glass and architectural intrigue.  NOTE TO SELF: You can’t get a tour inside, but some information in English would have made it more meaningful.  Then, we walk toward the town of Montmartre and are literally trapped by artists who insist on drawing Geer…and Carson…and me.  We didn’t know how to say no!  We actually said no, but they drew on.  Anyway, these are not the talented artists and our art portraits are of people who barely resemble us.  I gave them a tiny sum, they were sorely insulted, we quickly exited and Geer was even more uncomfortable than ever! 

We met a nice man from the US who had married a French woman and moved to Montmartre a few years earlier.  He gave us advice and the kids played with his adorable puppy, Sparkles!  Actually her name is French for sparkles, but we couldn’t remember that.  He directed us to the Montmartre Museum, which was lovely (but hot).  More walking, more art, more stairs, more pictures.  Finally we get to the square where the better artists were sketching family members or painting their own renditions of the view toward the Eiffel Tower or creating shadow portraits.  We enjoyed strolling this area and found a better Metro station to carry us home.  On the route, we found a great boutique where every item was designed and made in France.  Beautiful things!  And the kids had their first Bubble Tea…basically kool-aid with boba gummy bubbles???  I don’t know what it was, but it was good.  When we get back to Paris proper, we wind our way back to the river for an evening River Boat Cruise.  It was nice a breezy and a break from all the walking, even if we couldn’t quite understand everything the guide was saying.  NOTE TO SELF: If the river cruise is important, maybe book a good one.  If you just want the sights and a break, any seems to be fine.  We were pretty hungry…maybe even hangry at this point.  We walked back to our bustling area, up and down the tiny streets and found a pizza restaurant that was able to make ours to-go.  Down the street again to get more water and a few snacks and then we headed back to the apartment.  Might I add it was still so hot you could cure meat on the streets.  We get all our stuff up the lift, onto the tiny landing to find that it was 11 pm and the key did’t work in the apartment.  Geer tried, Carson tried, Mom tried, I tried.  It just wouldn’t go in!  My mind was racing, we were hungry and a little scared.  Mom kept us calm (sometimes she panics, and then when you need it most she is the voice of reason).  We all go back downstairs because it’s too hot and the light shut off on the landing.  Mom stays with the kids and I head back up, turn on my cell service (tickticktick on those minutes), and try the rental agency. As soon as I connect with them, I start fiddling with the lock and find that the face of the lock was twisted and not allowing the key in all the way.  Thank you God for watching out for us again!  We get in, get our sweaty clothes off and devour the pizza and hit the hay. 

Day 3 Wednesday, August 28th:

I’m never going to keep up with this journal…I’m so far behind.  So, I’m going to keep it short:  On Wednesday, we got going kinda late again.  Tried to eat a breakfast and coffee in the room and I packed up our biggest bag with things I thought we wouldn’t need for the next stops in Cannes and London.  It was so hot that I packed most of our jackets and long sleeve along with school materials.  We took an Uber to my new landlords Restaurant and he allowed us to store the extra bag in his office.  He wasn’t there, but we were able to walk around the corner and see where the apartment is located.  We also purchased some picnic items for lunch.  From there, we couldn’t get maps to work, so we took off on foot towards the Louvre.  We walked and we walked and we walked.  Finally, we saw signs for it, but where was the entrance?  It’s mammoth!   After circling it, we see the triangular windows and enter, have our picnic, take a few pics.  Then, we search tirelessly for the “Carrosel”, which was to provide a shortcut inside.  If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it’s hard to find.  We get in, get caught up in the Louvre gift shop, which is great in itself!  We luckily get moved to a fast ticket line and quickly get in.  It’s so huge!  And the free guide doesn’t give much information.  NOTE TO SELF: If you really want to get the most out of this museum, you need a guide or a book or something to direct you.  We wandered one hall, saw some unbelievable marble statues including the .  We viewed the ancient Egyptian artifacts and the real mummy, sphinxes, and more.  As we were running out of time, and steam, and patience for the crowds, we wind our way back to the hall with the Mona Lisa.  With queue after queue, we finally get there only to be ushered through like cattle with just enough time to snatch a picture.  Not the moment I had wished for, but we saw it!  The kids didn’t mind-they actually loved it!  Took about an hour to get out and at this point, we needed to be on our way to our one reservation.  We hopped in a taxi and I showed him the address I had looked up while on the free wifi at the Louvre.  I admit, I had mapped it earlier and it didn’t look far at all, but this cab ride was taking a while!  Finally, he said there was road closure, but our destination was just down this street on the right.  We pay, merci, and hop on out.  A few steps in, the kids eyes are wide and they are walking close to me.  I glance at a few of the shops and I’m confused.  Black curtains, neon lights, peep show signs.  PEEP SHOWS?!?  Where are we?  We get to the restaurant, La Cordonnerrie, and it’s a total dive bar. We ask about the kitchen (because that’s what we know of this place…you eat in the kitchen where the owner/chef makes your meal).  They say of course, they have a kitchen and can feed us.  This is wrong.  We quickly make our way back to the main street, hail another cab, use up those plan minutes to find the REAL. restaurant.  NOTE TO SELF:  Double check where you are going!  Anyway, at final arrival, the meal is lovely (even if it is HOT in the kitchen).  I had the best veal dish with perfect French fries.  The chef/owner, Hugo, talks to us when he’s not working tirelessly to create every meal all by himself.  This was his father’s restaurant and even though he didn’t really want to be chained to this job, it happened.  He cares about every dish, every experience.  And don’t ask for ketchup or special preparation…he feels pretty passionately that the way it is served is the right way.  I agree!  Taxi home.  NOTE TO SELF: If you ask the restaurant to call a taxi, the taxi adds on a charge.  I guess this is fine.  We fall into bet hot and full and happy and thankful we made it!

Day 4 Thursday, August 29th:  We really have somewhere to be.  We purchased Versailles tickets early and it’s a timed entry so we need to get up and going.  I think I have my directions.  A few trains later we do arrive (and it wasn’t too bad!).  At Versailles, we set a meeting point at the entry, in case anyone is lost.  This place is huge, too!  We walk through, grab our headset and get lost in room after room of paintings, portraits, models, history of this royal palace turned museum.  After room 10, we can’t find Nan.  I assure the kids she’s either ahead or behind. So we speak up and don’t see her.  Then we slow down and don’t see her.  We get to the hall of mirrors-love!  Still no nan.  So we exit, check our meeting point, look around, try to call.  We decide to check the main meeting point again before we go to the gardens (which are so huge that you could loose yourself in there).  She’s there!  So it does work!  That’s how people did it long ago, I guess!  We reunite and take to the gardens, have a snack and hit the subway back.  We had hoped to do some shopping, but it’s really hard to fit that in with everything else.  We decide to go the Galleries Lafayette, which I know to be a beautiful department store.  They have an awesome rooftop view of the city and a few quick service restaurants.  We set a meeting place after eating because we only have half an hour to shop.  We get to the meeting spot, but no Nan.  They ask us to leave out a different, main door because it’s closing time.  I assume Nan has them captive and is buying something exciting (probably for someone else because that’s what she does).  We wait and wait.  Finally, they come back out to get us and reunite us with her.  They put her out on the other side of the block.  She was a little rattled at this because we didn’t have a way to communicate.  It is hard like this.  Anyway, Uber took us home to pack up and say goodbye to Paris for now.  Today we have lots to be grateful for.  No one was hurt or permanently lost:).  

August 30-September 4, 2019

Day 5 Friday, August 30th:  We get up, get packed and get going.  We leave our beloved hot apartment and get the nicest taxi to the Gare Lyon train station.  When they open the boarding, you’ve got to get on fast because the train doesn’t wait!  This was a nice train with a 2×2 seat facing each other.  The train travel, though 5 hours, flew by as we tried to get school work, tried to remember what we’ve been doing all these days past, and watched the countryside go by.  We arrive in Cannes and it’s still hot!  We cab to our hotel to check in and head out to explore.  We walk the main street Rue Antibes, and look at all the shops!  Everything imaginable!  We find an amazing ice cream shop…so many yummy choices!  Kids get a dessert before dinner while we wait for the restaurants to open for dinner service.  We eat at a tapas restaurant and it’s very nice sitting outside.  We walk down to the pier and eye some nice yachts and their full crews getting them ready to sail.  It’s busy here, too, with many people wrapping up their summer vacation.  Finally, we get back to the room to decide on the plan of action for the next few days. 

Day 6 Saturday, August 31st: Carson and I get up a little early and review a few of the Cannes street markets, grab a few peaches and head back to the hotel to get changed.  Off we go to the train station again!  We find we can get a family pass for the whole day for about $12 euros.  We just missed the train to the Monaco, but the next one is only 25 minutes behind, so we wait…. This train is more like a regular subway train but it travels along the coast and we see some beautiful beaches.  These aren’t huge stretches of beach like we are accustomed to, but small little arches of sand or rocks between cliffs or buildings dotted along the coast.  The water is beautiful and clear and blue.  We get off at Monaco, about 45 minutes later, and Carson is excited to add another country to her list!  A short but steep walk takes us to the illustrious city center full of designer shops.  We pop in to Gucci to see if we need anything.  Actually we needed A/C.  And wifi.  We find both!  A couple from the cruise ship was shopping for matching dad-sneaks and they found them here!  A bargain with no taxes.  We move on to the block everyone recognizes with the Hotel de Paris Monte-Carlo, the Casino de Monte-Carlo and the Casino du Cafe de Paris.  Cars galore.  And Geer likes what he sees, even if he doesn’t know much about it.  We snap a few pics for his cousin Max, who loves cars too.  Hungry again and not many options, we eat at the Cafe de Paris in the Casino. It is pricey.  Luckily the kids like bread and they aren’t afraid to ask for it!  We split and scrimp our way through then head out to explore.  We walk around a little…beautiful gardens and shopping streets.  Then we take a bus to the old town.  It’s really nice and we missed the tour of the Palace of the Princess of Monaco:(. But we only had a little time and wanted the kids to have some fun at the Museum of Oceanography.  It was really a great museum, and we could have stayed for several hours, but 2 would have to do.  The kids loved seeing sharks and really unique marine life exhibits.  Finally, we had to pull away to get the bus to get the train, which we missed, but enjoyed talking to a nice young Law School student from Niger who was attending school in Nice.  And then we met a family from Dubai whose 6 year old daughter knows English, Russian and French.  She’s working on Spanish and Arabic.  Yikes!  We get back to Cannes and maybe we don’t eat at all?  I can’t remember!

Day 7 Sunday, September 1st: Beach day!  We get up, put on our suits and head out for a bite.  We have a BIG meal at a very American place called Breakfast at Emily’s.  It was buzzing and we split coffees, juices, pancakes in Nutella, muffins, eggs, smoked salmon and bacon.  We had to show Nan the markets we saw yesterday, so we took her by both and she found a few small treasures.  It is polite to say Bonjour! Before you start asking the guy to give you a deal, but it is appropriate to bargain at these markets for the brick-a-brac, but not for food.  Sweaty, we head to the closest beach.  The beach was packed with swimmers and non-swimsuit-wearing sunbathers.  Lots of boobies.  And people changing into their suits on the beach.  Less modesty and more skin.  The kids tried not to notice.  Geer LOVED the Mediterranean.  He stayed out and played for several hours.  Carson, too.  Mom and I enjoyed a few moments to catch up.     When we were done there, we walked the rest of the Croisette and saw the private beaches and clubs, had an ice cream or two, and played on the playground.  We left and Nan stayed out shopping for another 1/2 hour while kids and I went home to clean up.  I picked up a Pizza at a family-owned spot that has been in business there for 40 years.  We ate pizza and watched Harry Potter on the computer (trying to get ready for London!).  Finally, the kids slept and so did we.

Day 8 Monday, September 4:  Up early again and off to Nice.  Another train, more wandering, and we find the massive Monday antiques market. It’s really more like books and prints and salt shakers and jewelry and old toys and kind of reminded me of when my parents moved out of their old house.  But we enjoyed pursuing the isles.  We  also walked to the coast at Nice and it, too, was Mediterranean picture perfect.  We tried to bargain and buy some cool fashion prints from a 1930’s era Paris magazine, but the guy wouldn’t budge on the price.  We asked him to hold them and walked around to see if the price was right.  When we came back, he acted like he didn’t understand what we were saying or what we wanted so we gave up.  As we walked away, we watched him go to the place he had stored the prints and put them up.  He obviously just didn’t want to sell them to us!  Geer was mad-he said he never liked that guy anyway.  Geer has a way of knowing people.  We take the long walk back to the train station and head home.  When we get home we pop in to a few shops and then at the hotel, Geer really wants to hit the beach again, so off we go and I’m so glad we did.  It was a hot, beautiful day and the 3 of played in the cool, clear water.  We laughed and prayed and told each other how much we loved each other and how happy we were to be together.  Just missing Daddy, and he would love this beach!  

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We head home to clean up and off to a restaurant that was listed as a good bargain in Cannes.  The service was friendly and fast and we enjoyed our last night together here.  Nan had been a great traveller and comfort to us through this trip.

Day 9 Tuesday, September 3 & Day 10 Wednesday, September 4:  Up early, off to the train station yet again to head back to Paris.  For some reason, the ride back seemed to take longer than the ride there, but it was enjoyable as the kids caught up on schoolwork and mom and I tried again to recall everything we had seen and done.  We met a family from England on the train and of course mom wanted them to tell me all about it, as if they were my personal tour guides!  When we arrived at the station, we had a little time to kill before heading to the airport hotel.  We walked through Le Train Bleu and it really is spectacular!  The restaurant didn’t open for several hours, but the lounge was open for light bites.  Judge if you must, but we fed the kids a $5 sandwich and then mom and I dined at Le Train Bleu!  It was delicious and beautiful and a great way to cap off our trip with the best Caesar Salad and Croque Monsieur and wine.  Then off we go to the world’s tiniest hotel room near the airport where we watched the end of Harry Potter all 4 piled in one bed.  We wake up and get Nan to her gate with no time to spare.  Kisses and hugs and prayers and promises.  As she walked through security and out of site, the waterworks came.  The kids were so sad to see her go because they just love being with her.  She’s a piece of work, but she does make life better.  She’s just the best.

So, the kids and I walk around, play around on the sidewalks, buy grocery food to eat for lunch and dinner, catch up on homework and such on this day.  Then we pack up and get ready for the British part of the program…

September 5-September 8, 2019

Day 11 Thursday, September 5  Up up up again off to Gare du Nord in Paris to catch the train to London!  As we were looking for the Eurostar station, we ran in to a group from, of all places, Tuscaloosa!  A mother/son duo traveling back to London from Paris.  They were planning to attend a period dress-up event at Highclere Castle, where Down Abbey was filmed.  I enjoyed talking with them and getting tips.  We even knew a few of the same people.  It is a small world:)  Upon arrival in London, we took the tube (the subway in London is an underground walkway…the tube is the actual transportation) to our stop at Earl’s Court and walked the short walk to our apartment.  It was still being cleaned, so we dropped our bags and took off exploring.  We ended up at Holland Park…not a place on my radar, but it was nice and big and had several fields, a museum and a beautiful rose garden. We ended at a brand new amazing playground.  Honestly, it was the coolest one I’ve seen.  Kids wanted to play forever, and eventually my phone died!!!  Yikes!  Thankfully, I talked another mom into letting me look at her maps long enough to get my bearings back to our place. The one time I don’t bring my backup battery…. Anywho, we grab some groceries on the way home and settle in for a few days.

Day 12 Friday, September 6:  Who has time to keep up with blogging and who actually reads this stuff?!?  I digress and I will pair-down my words and details for you all here.  I LOVED London.  I have only been once, as a teen, and I remember Trafalgar Square and dying for hamburger and a coke.  So, with the kids in tow and only a few days, I knew must just hit the highlights (which for them were the M&M store and the world’s largest Lego store…go figure!).  Tower of London-loved it!  Loved the stories, the stoney streets, the drawbridges, the artillery, the chapel, the Yeoman Warders (called Beefeaters, or Meateaters if you’re Geer).  And the Crown Jewels!  WHAT!?!  They were amazing!  I rode the revolving walkway time and time again to get a look.  Kids really had fun, too.  Then we walked over bridges, under tunnels, through an amazing food market (Bourough Market), tried foods from different cultures, passed by the new Globe Theater, up to the top of the Tate Museum of Modern Art (kids are getting tired and punchy), then over the Thames again on the Millennium Bridge, a marvel of a steel suspension bridge for pedestrian traffic only.  Once across, we make it just to St Paul’s Cathedral just in time for the Evensong.  I suspected this would be crowded, because to tour the church costs money, but to come for service is free.  But it wasn’t and we find ourselves in the choir loft.  This place is magnificent. On this site, there has been a church for over 1,400 years!  The building has been replaced a few times, but the current structure was opened in 1697.  I wasn’t allowed to take pictures, but I will remember how great it was.  I was recently reading an article that made references to the cathedrals of old and how no one would take the time and effort and attention to detail to build something of that magnitude today.  It was breathtakingly beautiful.  Now the organ music and the choir…well:/. I can enjoy lots of different music but it wasn’t really my thing.  It was beautiful and I’m sure very meaningful to their congregation (where were they anyway?), so I just closed my eyes and thanked God for the centuries of believers who have carried the torch of Christianity and preserved the history so we can recount again and again how good our God is.  Actually, God is the one who has preserved it against all odds, and I love that.  As the minister said (in a sing-song voice, I might add), “Ooouuurrr Faaahhhhttthhher”, it was understandable that Carson thought we were going into a song that we actually knew.  So when she chimed in (actually, she was the only one chiming), in her lowest voice to match the officiant’s, “WWWhhhhhhooooo aaarrttt….”.  I.almost.died.  I jerked around to her, she looked up at me with big eyes and red cheeks, and we did die.  Right there, we couldn’t hold in the laughter.  I’m so sorry to St. Paul’s, we didn’t mean any disrespect.  But I couldn’t stop.  We exit quickly as soon as it’s over.  I made the worst meal ever, but the kids didn’t seem to care.  As a treat (I mean, what’s an all-expenses paid European vacation without a TREAT, right?), the kids watch Annie on netflix.  The songs are still ringing in my head:)

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Day 13 Saturday, September 7:  Really kids, we have to get going, catch the tube to the Leicester Square area (think Times Square).  What?  A huge M&M store?  Of course!  They really wanted to get their faces on them, but we have to cut somewhere.  Apparently, the chocolate in the M&Ms in Europe is better.  I have to try a lot of them to finally agree.  And Legos?  A huge Lego store with a 2 story Big Ben replica made of LEGOS?  Yes please!  Finally, we buy tickets to the show that the kids picked out (School of Rock) and tickets for the double decker bus tour.  NOTE TO SELF: I didn’t think this was really worth it.  There were so many strikes that we were sitting more than riding, it was a cold day for us and we already had an Oyster card which gave us unlimited bus and tube rides.  But it was fun.  And the kids enjoyed sitting for a while.  We ride the bus to Buckingham Palace!  Because of course we have to see the changing of the guards.  But today marked the end of summer and now they don’t change daily.  Oh dang.  Anyway, we check out the palace, crawl and climb on some huge statues until we are asked to get down, walk through the green park and play a while, spend a good half-hour trying to figure out where we catch the dang double decker bus, then hop back on.  The bus is in gridlock.  I remember wanting to go the Museum of London.  NOTE TO SELF: I liked it.  The kids were almost museum-ed out at this point.  It tells the story of London since it was Londonium, a Roman settlement, around AD 43, to Lundenwic, to London.  Just seeing artifacts that were that old was pretty cool to me.  I didn’t have time to explore the entire timeline of London, but I enjoyed trying to get it in.  Did I tell my kids, through pinched lips, that I will snatch them up and take them home and put them in front of their computer for schoolwork?  Maybe.  I digress. We find ourselves at the double decker bus stop and wait.  And wait.  And wait.  Finally we start talking to the mother/daughter that are also waiting.  A lovely pair from Switzerland.  The daughter, Milia, doesn’t speak much English yet but she’s 9 and kids don’t really need words.  They sign language for tag and the fun begins.  We end up canning the double decker and hitting the tube to our theater spot with our new friends.  We grab a bite to eat and the kids are more interested about playing.  It was such a fun break.  We split up so they can see Matilda and we head to School of Rock!  It was a little rougher than I had imagined, but the kids LOVED it.  And children played their actual instruments on stage and they were all amazing.  What a fun night!  Tube ride home was no problem and we fall into bed singing, “Stick it to the MAN”!

Day 14 Sunday, September 8: It’s Sunday, yay!  We were debating going to church at Westminster Abbey or Hillsong’s London campus.  I’m thinking Hillsong because it’s later and we already had our organ fill.  But Carson kinda wants to go to the Abbey.  I’m so glad we did!  We make it just in time on a perfectly beautiful sunny day.  It’s also breathtaking (no pictures except this one I snuck in).  I enjoyed the Bible reading and the responsive portion and loved reading the passages they were singing and had included in the bulletin.  I could see the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge right in this place.  Carson wondered if she could get married there?  I’m not really certain.  We walk our way to Trafalgar Square and see a service going on to honor those who died in battle for Britain.  On the square, who can resist those massive bronze lion sculptures? The kids climbed and scooted and hoisted on to them.  Did we get a glance from the guard once?  Well, yes.  But we needed that last picture and honestly, everyone was doing it.  When the guard came and told us that if he warns us again he will be calling the police, we were OUT.  Like a wild animal we left that place.  So on to more walking, an hour or so in Hamley’s (this 7 floor toy store puts all others to shame and they had demonstrations on every floor).  We make it to Hyde Park and the Princess Diana Memorial Museum for an hour of fun, then we jet over to the Science Museum with only 1/2 hour left:(  A fun last-night dinner at a Mediterranean restaurant, more giggles and shenanigans on the tube home, and we were ready to move on to the final stage of the play.  I left many things undone in London:  I didn’t eat nearly enough food that I WANTED to eat, and there were glasses of wine that I wanted to drink!  I passed way to many shops that I wanted to go in.  Harrods?  I didn’t get to do that.  I wanted to take the kids to the Natural History Museum and maybe the London Eye.  But, I guess we need to leave more to be explored for another time, hopefully. “You’ll be back…time will tell…”

September 9-September 15, 2019

Day 15 Monday, September 9:  We wake up and thank God for this day and the days behind that we have had safety, protection, so many signs to know that He truly has been going before us everywhere.  I am thankful and my heart is full.  Carson gets an ache each time she sees a beggar.  And of course there’s no shortage.  I’m glad she feels that.  She purchased a new backpack on the street earlier, so she packed up her old one with snacks, water, a daily devotional Nan left behind, a blanket and a note she wrote.  She was sure she would find the perfect person for this bag on the way to the Chunnel, but we were in a rush to get there and didn’t see anyone in the tube.  So she carried it on the Chunnel all the way back to Paris.  When we arrived at Gare du Nord and walked outside, she saw the recipient.  She went up to her, gave her the bag and had a few words.  The lady was very appreciative and what’s more, a passerby was so moved he stopped to say how awesome it was.  So what did we do?  We went across the street to McDonalds to have lunch!  Of course we’ve eaten at McDonalds many many times (every Thursday morning with our Breakfast Club for years), but this was Carson’s first hamburger;)  We were stalling to hear from our landlord and we finally did.  So off we go to our final stop…Le Marais in the heart of Paris…one of the oldest sections of town filled with tiny cobbled streets, shops and brasseries and boulangeries and patisseries and fromageries…you get the picture!  Full of life and overflowing out every door with every type of person imaginable.  Every time we get to a new location, I have butterflies.  Not the love type of butterflies but the scared to death what have I done who do I think I am to make a decision about a place for my children to sleep from a world away knowing nothing, nothing, nothing about where we are going or what we are doing.  That kind.  Today was no different.  We hoisted our 4 big bags up 2 floors to a tiny, circular staircase that wasn’t quite wide enough for me and my backpack at the same time.  Thankful for Lois, our landlord’s employee, who helped us.  This building is almost 300 years old.  That’s a lot of living.  It was probably once a big house, then subdivided into single rooms, then years later the rooms were joined up to make apartments, and toilets and teeny tiny showers and efficiency appliances were added to modernize the apartment.  But y’all, it’s going to work for us!  I have a bedrooms with a desk and windows that open onto a courtyard.  The kids have a cool loft with lots of nooks and crannies.  We have an open living room with a little kitchen that overlook this street full of life.  I can even crane my neck out to see the kids go get a baguette across the street.  So we spend the day unpacking and trying to settle our nerves about the whole situation.  I finally get the kids down to sleep and I stay up late pouring over guides about France and wondering what we will do next.  I’m tired, nervous and thankful.  I know I’ll have to rely on God’s strength and at the same time I feel so blessed just to be here.  

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Day 16 Tuesday, September 10:  Today we have plans!  I met a friend on Facebook thanks to an English Speaking Mom’s group and we are meeting them at Luxembourg.  Yayyyy!  We wake up late….or a normal time for us now:/. We scrounge some breakfast, we try to get work and school done and wait with excitement for 1pm!  Finally we start our trek to Luxembourg, about 45 minutes walk…which we need after all the baguettes. We met the McLaughlins at the boat pond.  Betsy, the lovely mom, had printed out a scavenger hunt which we did with the kids in teams…the 2 boys, Will and Geer, and the girls, Carson and Edy.  Then we had a crepe, because when in Rome…. We finished with some playground play.  It was so nice to talk to someone else from the US who was doing something crazy.  They are actually here for a whole year!  Their son had heart complications at birth and has had multiple surgeries. He is stable now and they are fulfilling a dream with their family this year.  So cool!  She was a wealth of information and encouragement for me, and we can’t wait to see them all again.  This day, we walked 5 miles.  Not Moxie, but not bad either. 

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Day 17 Wednesday, September 11:  This is the day before the day that Daddy’s coming!!!  We are all eager to see Edgar and he gets in early Thursday morning.  But we also have a few plans this day.  We try to get a little school work done, drop in at our landlords restaurant for a coffee and a Chocolat Chaud (hot chocolate), that was too chocolatey for my kids, so I had a coffee and 2 Chocolat Chauds (emoji of laughing tears on a rolling ball round lady inserted here…that would be me).  Off we go on the Metro for a new adventure.  Did we get on the right line headed the wrong way?  Yes.  Did we recognize our mistake and quickly correct it?  Yes.  Did we see the 3 most adorable, albeit scary, Chow Chow dogs playing in a dog park on the Seine?  Yes!  How did you know?  And finally, we made it to the American Church in Paris where I saw a starting date for a children’s choir.  We had no idea where/what/when/who, but it all worked out.  This is a beautiful church in the creme de la creme area of the 7th, near the American University, the American Library, and in the shadow of the Tower Eiffel.  This seems to be the place where the expats and US politicos gather.  It’s beautiful, full of wide boulevards and white table clothed dining rooms.  Anyway, the kids are nervous (well, Geer is nervous.  Carson is just hoping they can get her mic-ed up).  I tell them to go in with an open mind.  It’s a small group in a kind of fancy Methodist theater hall with wood floors and a wood stage and wood walls and a grand piano.  The teacher is amazing.  She immediately grabs their attention and for one hour, these children are rapt with her piano and vocal skills and they read music and sing along in preparation for next Sunday’s performance.  I’m in the back, watching the warm-ups and wondering what in the world are we doing.  And do you know what happened next?  No, you don’t.  But, she started their music piece…”God is so good…God is so good…God is so good, God’s so good to me.”.  This is OUR SONG!  What?  How!  Chills covered my body and I recognized again that God is good, HE is with us, going before us.  I relax a little.  The kids had fun.  And another BOY came in at the end.  I think he may be a friend of Geer’s before it’s all over.  So next, we go to the American Library, sign up (who cares what it costs, we need to speak English at some point during the week and we are sponsoring….something worthwhile I’m sure!!!). This was so fun.  Kids both got books, we made plans to attend some of their many kids events and Carson caught on the September Vogue.  Priorities people.  We jet set back home where we walk over to A la Ville de Rodez, a boutique shop that carries many French charcuterie products, cheeses, wine, accompaniment.  The owner is so nice, he helps us select some meat and cheese and he’s so busy that we insist on waiting (we’ve got nothing else to do) and in between customers he brings us more and more samples!  So, we drop our paycheck here and go home happy:)  We think Edgar will like our selections.  We go to bed anticipating Dad’s arrival.  I can’t sleep afraid I’ll miss his call and how will he get in if I miss his call…

Day 18 Thursday, September 12:  We wake up, we talk to him, we wait, we hang out the window, we hear from him, we wait, we watch.  He’s finally here and the kids run down to escort him in.  They’ve never been more excited.  Like Santa Clause but better.  Edgar had a sleep aid on the plane (Geer heard me say that Edgar has a sleep aid, and he said, “Oh really, what’s her name:)!) but somehow the jet lag does a number on everyone.  We walk around to show him our hood, walk to the vast Bastille market and sit down for breakfast at the cafe across from our apartment.  Back in the room, he’s wiped out.  So he naps and the kids do school work.  We get going again and walk some more, have a great dinner at our landlords restaurant, get the chance to talk to them and finally have our first of many glaces while Edgar is in town:)  In McKee tradition, we want to watch a family movie.  We choose Karate Kid (why, Netflix, can’t you show the original? Who is Mr. Han?  What was wrong with Mr. Miagi??). Edgar gets through the intro song and we get through half.  Good night moon.

Day 19 Friday, September 13: What did we do?  I have no idea.  Oh, yea!  We got up and Edgar was still out cold.  We tried to wake him (not something you really want to do often).  He didn’t move, so we left him there.  When we finally get him up, he can’t believe he’s slept until 11!  So, baguettes for breakfast?  Oh yes.  We have school to do, so we struggle through that while Edgar works and falls asleep periodically. Then we take off on foot again.  We walk through the I’ll Saint-Louis, one of the oldest Paris neighborhoods, surrounded by the Seine and neighboring Notre Dame.  We walk and walk and walk, through neighborhoods, along the Seine, through the Louvre entry and back to Les Halles where we revisit some of the places we saw 7 years ago when we came.  We end at the Les Halles forum mall to buy Geer a soccer ball.  We find a park for Edgar and Geer to kick around a little and then we head home.  We had planned to eat falafel, but it was closed.  So we search for something reasonable that we will all like and end up eating Asian, in the basement of a street shop.  And it was delicious.  More glace to end the day and we finish The Kid…

Day 20 Saturday, September 14:  Edgar and Geer go for breakfast and bring us back a spread.  After school work catch up, cards, reading, etc., we are ready to head out.  This weekend is Fete des Jardins, with special features at many gardens and parks.  We head to Parc Monceau at Edgar’s suggestion and it was perfect.  This park was less touristy than some of the others, but big and beautiful.  Geer found some kids to kick the soccer ball with, Carson made a friend on the playground, and I met a nice young lady who offered to teach me French!  Instead of using the metro back, we walk.  This day we logged 6 miles!!!  On the way home, we stop for a late afternoon snack of Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame with fries, and a little wine.  This energizes us until we get home for a quick rest.  Then of course we need more glace.  

Day 21 Sunday, September 15: We had planned to try out Hillsong Church in Paris, which offers a bilingual service at 10.  We weren’t sure what that meant, but we got ready and took the 50 minute long walk to the church, which was in a performing theater.  Everyone was very welcoming and we took our seats early, the place was maybe 25% full.  But by the start it was packed.  Songs were in French (captions in French and English) and in English (captions in both).  The Australian lead pastor’s words were translated into French from the stage, and the Canadian guest speaker’s sermon in French was translate into English from the stage.  The interpreters were amazing…carrying the same tone and inflection and passion that the original speaker had.  It sounds confusing, but it worked.  We all loved the message on shining your light.  We are lights in our world if we are children of God.  Are we shining in a bright room at church only, or are we shining in dark places as well?  The 50 minute walk there took 50 minutes back and we were ready for a yummy brunch and we had one!  The boys rested and followed along with football.  Carson and I walked around le Marais.  Much of Paris is closed on Sunday, but this Jewish area is closed to cars but open for business.  It was bustling with people enjoying the sunshine and shopping up a storm.  Finally, for dinner, we got that Falafel and it was delicious.  The kids have been waiting to eat this until Edgar came and I think they really enjoyed it!  It’s different, for sure, but they are learning to be open to try new things and this was no exception.  We tried glace at Grog for our last night, and it was the best yet.  Sadly, we said good night knowing Edgar would leave before the sun rose on Monday. 

September 16-September 20, 2019

Day 22 Monday, September 16: Edgar was up and out before 6 am.  The kids and I got up and had planned a massive clean of this 300 year old apartment.  With a pocket of change (but not nearly enough) we filled our suitcases with the bedding, covers, pillow covers, pillow stuffing, towels, etc….anything fabric that we thought we could wash.  We march ourselves around a block or 2 and spend the better part of day rub a dub dubbing our digs.  I’ve never done this.  The kids thought is was fun!  I talked to an interesting lady who has lived in le Marais off and on her whole life, in between jobs in Australia, US, China.  Now she’s retired and happy.  But no washer and no dryer.  At home, we swept and vacuumed and cleaned until the kids were calling me Ms. Hannagin.  As a treat, we went to the American diner and they split a cheeseburger while I had Pastrami.  It was a TREAT, to be sure.  Did we do our school?  I guess we did:/

Day 23 Tuesday, September 17: This is the day set aside to get serious about life.  We get up, get going, get our groceries, get to learning, get to dance class (which was a typo on the schedule so we find ourselves wandering around, trying chocolates all over town until we run into a park and burn off a few of those calories).  We get off track and jump back on.  We finish our school, make our own dinner (with left over pastrami:)) and get to BED.  We’ve got to get serious people!

Day 24 Wednesday, September 18: Have you had a Pastel de Nata?  It’s an egg tart from Portugal and it is to.die.for.  It is a bit like a buttermilk pie, except it’s personal size and the crust is more layers of crust, kind of like phyllo, and the filling isn’t quite so sticky-sweet, and it’s dusted with cinnamon and it is perfection.  We stopped at Comme Lisbon for one of these each and it was a good 6 euros spent on the way to the metro to head back to the American Library for our new Wednesday tradition.  A nice walk, metro ride, more walking, time in the library for looking and reading, then we head out to church.  We stopped at a bustling boulangerie for a chicken sandwich (pulled chicken with mayo, boiled egg slices, tomato, onion, lettuce on that baguette) and we split it between us as we raced to get to choir practice on time.  We make it, and what do you know but Carson will be singing the “God is so good” solo at church on Sunday!  She’s very happy and did a great job.  Geer did a great job, too, and is getting friendly with the other boy in the choir, who’s name is Raphael.  He’s kind of French/Australian and here for who knows how long with his French mum and Aussie dad.  We race off after choir to get to Carson’s dance lesson in le Marais near our house.  This dance school has 140 different teachers and multiple studios teaching 70 varieties of dance disciplines and over 400 dance classes a week!  We find a classical dance class for Carson and she tries it out.  This place is literally a maze.  It surrounds a courtyard with multiple doors, each going up to 4 floors.  To get to Carson’s class, we go up 2 floors, down the hall, through the musty corridor and down a circular staircase.  It smells like feet and armpits all over.  You know there’s very little a/c and maybe none in these buildings.  People are changing all over the place.  The halls are so narrow you can hardly fit yourself, much less 2 people.  The director of Carson’s particular studio tries to convince Geer to try.  He’s not buying it.  So, we go across the street for an Aperol Spritz (I’d have one at home if I could find a way to keep Prosecco…any ideas?).  We get her an hour later and of course she loved it.  Now it’s 5:30 and we have almost a day of schoolwork ahead.  Heaven help us!:)

Day 25 Thursday, September 19:  The days are starting to run together beginning with snuggles in the morning (which is kinda late, I’ll be honest) and giggles at night.  How will we ever go back?  This morning, Geer wants to go get something at the grocery so we get dressed right away, find ourselves at the grocery and then have a quick walk.  We come home to do a hare of work (or is it a hair of work??? I have no idea?!?).  My landlord has FINALLY promised to have a mouse trap for us and the key to our mailbox.  YAY!  Send us some mail people:). I have a feeling I may not have mentioned the mouse before.  But…we have a mouse.  In our house.  I suspected him early on, we saw him flesh and blood about a week ago.  Carson spotted him and we all screamed bloody murder while on the phone with a friend around 9pm our time.  The kids danced around on tip toes wondering what was going on.  Disclaimer…we have 2 outdoor cats, cat 1 and and cat 2, who handle these sorts of things for us now.  But I am no stranger to rodents.  I settle down and tell the kids this is no big deal, recap my history and how the mouse really wants nothing to do with us.  I call the husband and the dad and decide we are going out at 9pm to find a mouse trap.  We scurry down the stairs and our poor neighbor below comes out to ask us to please be 🤐   Oops.  Well guess what?  They don’t sell mouse traps in these parts.  Apparently they use an electrical device and apparently mine is broken.  Anyway, we think for days that the mouse was scared away until we leave out a loaf of break and Mr. Jingles, as he is known, chews through it.  So, I call the landlord again and beg for help.  He promises industrial traps and someone to service the machine on Thursday, which is today.  That brings me back.  We head to the landlord’s restaurant and have a yummy lunch of cheeses and cured meats from Italy.  And bread.  Lots of bread.  The kids split a Chocolat Chaud, which I’ve mentioned before is more like drinking a dark chocolate bar than anything else.  We get the industrial mouse traps (glue traps-boo!), and wind up exploring the area for another few hours.  We hit up a few parks and walk past some unbelievably old buildings.  At our last park, an unassuming grandma strolls her granddaughter next to my bench.  She hears me speak to the kids and strikes up a conversation.  Turns our, they lived in New Orleans for 3 years as her husband was a French Law professor there.  They LOVED New Orleans and one of her daughters ended up marrying an American, so her 4 grandkids speak both English and French.  The grandkids start showing up at the park after school and the next thing you know, we are being asked (or ordered) to follow them home.  Then to come upstairs with them.  Crazy!  My new friend lives on one half floor of the building.  She has another daughter who lives below and the daughter with 4 kids lives above.  Also in the building are 2 Americans.  These are not really “apartments” like I would have pictures, but grand suites with 12 or 14 foot ceilings, 2 floors, and many rooms covered with memorabilia of her travels and her family.  It was surreal and so kind.  After a quick visit, we exit and my friend vows to call me when she gets back from her 2 week Yoga retreat in India.  What a day!  We run around to get a few more things and again, it’s 6 pm and we have a day of school left to do.  

Day 26 Friday, September 20:  Yay!  Meet with our friends day!  We had planned to go to a great park and museum in La Villette, a little bit away.  But our friends are really interested in Greta Thunberg, the 16 year old advocate for climate change.  On this day around the world there will be many climate change marches and protests and demonstrations.  So, we meet our friends at a walk for this cause.  It was a tame and peaceful protest that day, lots of signs against fossil fuel use, commerce, tourism, trump, etc.  Lots of learn to swim signs.  Maybe a few boobs painted like Earth.  But since our visit to Cannes beaches, Geer has seen a few boobs and thus seemed unphased.  We watched and talked about what was going on, and after viewing a few of Greta’s films, I must say we were a bit inspired.  I have to be honest that my knowledge of fossil fuels and damage to the Earth is small.  I have a lot of faith and know that the end is coming when God says it is.  BUT, we take such good care of many things that are entrusted to us…our children, our homes, our bodies, our jobs.  What about the Earth?  So I am thinking about this more.  Anyway, we get our fill and head to the park.  It’s a huge, beautiful park built around canals and manmade waterways (thank you Napoleon Bonaparte) that were created for clean water sources and transportation.  Still used today, but the banks of the canals are now centers for relaxation and recreation.  It was such a beautiful day that we skipped the indoor museum and instead walked the huge park, spent time on the massive dragon slide in the playground, had an ice cream and enjoyed getting to know our Paris friends:)   Did we eat at McDonalds on the way home?  Yes we did!  There was a really nice one outside the Metro station that we exited from the park.  Seriously, the McDonalds are nicer than at home (at least the ones we’ve tried).  They have a cafe area, digital ordering, free wifi, bathrooms you don’t have to pay for and less nitrates, so I’m told.  We walk a mile home expecting to find a mouse on the trap, but no luck.  So, we set ourselves up to finish our school and I’m on the phone with a friend when Geer and Carson spot Mr. Jingles!  It’s him, in the flesh.  They basically chase him onto a glue pad (cracking myself up b/c Geer’s shirt says “Be Kind”).  I’m so proud of these brave little souls…they do all the work!  They get him in a bag, we pack up the olive oil as we continue to argue what to do with him.  We scurry down to park #1…it’s closed!  So is park #2 (it is 9pm).  Finally, we find an area and we open the bag.  We sprinkle in a little olive oil so Mr. Jingles has a chance to escape the glue trap and we leave him there hoping he can live his best life somewhere other than our apartment.  Yes, we’ve had many treats today, but after this, we go for another ice cream.  Mother of the year:/

September 21-27, 2019

Day 27 Saturday, September 21:  Oh gosh, I’m getting behind on my journals, so bear with me here!  This Saturday was a type of Heritage Days across Europe, known here as Journées du Patrimoine.  Various monuments and historical places open their doors for free to be viewed by the public.  Let me tell you…I didn’t know where to start.  So, I found a science museum that could double as science and history lesson for the kids and I just knew they would love it.  To pump them up, we hoofed it on a 30 minute walk to an “American/Parisian Fusion” donut joint I had heard about.  It was all that.  The biggest, fluffiest donuts (more Southern Made than Krispie Kreme), covered in some interesting sugar concoctions.  I had heard about a seasonal fig offering that I didn’t see in the case.  So we went for the Classic Beach Haven (cinnamon and sugar), the OG (that’s original glazed) and a decadent Caramel Buerre Sale (salted caramel oozing from every corner, running down my fingers).  Yes.  As we are preparing to dash across a few more blocks to the museum, the proprietor and pastry chef, brought a hot tray of the infamous Fig Donut.  I can say NO to a whole lotta stuff, but a slightly quirky fucshia pink donut with a candied fig on top…that’s a yes.  What’s another 6 Euro (Edgar I hope you aren’t reading this)!  We exchanged a few quick words and vowed we would be back for their annual Halloween Trick or Treating event.  The winner gets a dozen donuts so you can bet we will go big or go home!  The sugar helped us bullet through the street to the Musee des Arts et Metiers.  Part of the museum is in an old church so the interior was gorgeous, too.  There are also 2 miniature Statue of Liberty sculptures here and a Foucault’s pendulum.  The exhibits are ordered by time of development and included industrial materials, construction, communication, scientific instruments, mechanics, energy, and transportation.  It was amazing!  My kids should have totally been into row after row and case after case of these precious examples of how far we have come in the world.  Wrong:/  I don’t know if it was the sugar high or the words they needed to read, but I was way more interested than they were…could this be a theme? Ask my family, I didn’t pay attention as a child and I’ve been waiting to have children of my own so maybe I could have a second chance at learning.  I’m trying to take advantage and my children are…well they are children!  Augh!  Maybe I should leave the history in the past.  So goes our day, bolting around from place to place to try to see something that can’t normally be seen.  We succeeded a few times and failed a few, too.  We visited a beautiful church, Basilique Notre-Dame-des-Victories, wondered through the most amazing covered passage shopping street called Galerie Vivienne with glass ceilings and mosaic tile floors, strolled through the beautiful Jardin du Palais Royal and chased each other through the surrounding arcade and alleys until we were hungry again.  I have to balance my $6 donuts, so we split a Pad Thai from a street vendor like pigeons on a fallen french fry.  We made it to the Palais Garnier (the most famed Opera House in the world and the inspiration for Phantom) and after waiting in line for what seemed like hours, we find out that this particular marvel is not on the free tour.  I can’t afford it (donuts!).  We peak in a few cracked doors and head to the FREE Perfume Museum tour.  Loved it and we smell great.  We criss cross the Seine River to get to Luxembourg Gardens to see the Palace where the French Senate does their thing.  Closed.  We throw our hands up, get the $15 dinner at M&S Foods (wine included) and head home with a quick stop at an impromptu wine and food and music event on the banks of the Seine as we cross it again.  NINE.MILES.LATER (our highest to date), we fall into bed for family movie night.

Day 28 Sunday, September 22:  It’s no car day in Paris, yay!  Well, it doesn’t really matter to us because I don’t think we’ve been in a car since we arrived back from London.  And even in London, we never took a ride in those adorable cab cars.  But today, this rainy Sunday, we need to get to church early because the kids are singing in the Children’s Choir at the American Church in Paris!  We think about a bus, but we don’t really know the route.  We opt for our regular Metro route (even though it means a 20 minute walk at the end).  Oddly, the train keeps going past our regular stop.  Five stops past!  Maintenance!  We get back on the other direction, get as close as we can, hop off, spot a taxi, hop in, get stuck because of so many barricaded roads.  An hour and 25 Euros later we are finally at church, and I guess everyone else had the same transportation woes because my two kids are two in their age choir!  So basically, they sang a duet.  Seriously though, Carson had a solo part in the song “God is So Good”.  She sang “My God is good and ever blesses me.  The wonder of creation show God’s greatness.  God loves and cares for me and lights the path I tread….and by His light will I be lead.”  It was so beautiful and touching and true and worth the rain and everything it took to get to that place.  This was our first time in the Sunday service at the American Church and I loved it and the message that in the current climate, God wants us to get creative with our options and freedoms to show love and grace to this world.  When life doesn’t turn out like we had hoped, YAHOO.  Because of Jesus, You Always Have Other Options.  After, we meet up with the McLaughlin’s (our new partners in crime) and agree to go with them to see Hotel de Ville from the Patrimoine event since it’s so close to our house.  We wait at the bus stop (because my friend Betsy is an uber-super-navigator), however it never comes and the rain starts to fall.  We scurry to the closest Metro willing to take whatever connections we need to, and that station is closed!  We slush across Invalides to a final station that is open.  We agree to split up and after a few missed stops and connections, we get HOME…soaked to the bone and thankful to be safe and together.  What a day! We learned that our cute, think Old Navy “rain jackets” aren’t waterproof, that the best-laid plans can go awry, that there are always Other Options.  And we learned that God is lighting our path and we are so thankful we have found some friends to call on in times of need while we are here.  We did rally and got out of the house later to see the Hotel de Ville, a historic building in Paris that is now home to the Mayor of Paris and all Paris administration.  Kind of like City Hall in Gulf Shores.  I use this comparison lightly.

Day 29 Monday September 23:  We hit the books again, really trying our best to care about fractions and narratives.  While the kids are killing it, I’m running back and forth to the laundromat to do the sheets and such and grabbing groceries from many different stores to cook dinner for our friends tonight.  We meet them at the Jardin de Plants and check out the Menagerie Zoo there…lots of cute little owls, strange horned animals, birds snakes and such.  Betsy and Will have an acting lesson (yea, they are cool like that), so they jet off and Edy stays with us to finish the tour.  We walk home…it looked so close on the map, but it was more like almost 2 miles!  Betsy and Will come back and we have fun preparing our first REAL, homemade dinner at our place.  It was yummy, and the kids had so much fun showing their friends our tiny home, playing games, etc.  I loved the time to just chat.  Betsy told me about an amazing mother/daughter project they do in her home town and I am dying to implement it when we get home.  Other people have different experiences and different view points, but many of the same issues that we all face and the same desires all mothers have.  Isn’t that what we need sometimes?  To get outside of ourselves and what is “normal” to us and see through another lense.  We introduce our favorite board game, Brandii Dog, to them and play until they absolutely have to go home.  What a fun day!  Oh, and sidenote: they brought us a DOZEN macarons from LaDuree!  These tiny, little jewel-colored almond flour pastry shells with creamy fillings are the best thing going, and I mean that from the bottom of my sugar-coated heart.  Could I eat one dozen?  Yes I could.  Would I eat one dozen?  Yes I would.  But I do love my children, so I share our delightful gift with them.  We save 3 for breakfast.  Hey, they truly don’t keep longer than a day so I feel like we did them justice by finishing them off:)

Day 30 Tuesday, September 24:  What did we do today?  I don’t even know!  I think we tried to catch up on school because we played so much on Monday; and Wednesdays are play-days, too!  Oh I remember.  We got AN EMAIL.  An email from Carson’s teacher stating that she is, how can I put this lightly, WAY behind in her school progress.  In her defense, she has been working very hard and diligently.  So, I just let her.  I help when she asks, but she was trucking along putting in the same amount of time as Geer, so I thought all was right in the world.  So, we spent this day getting honest with ourselves and trying to chip away at the assignments.  I was angry.  I mean, she’s a smart enough girl!  I said many times, “Carson, you are going to be behind and have to repeat the 6th grade if you don’t get busy!”  Or, “Carson, when you get home and have to stay after school to get caught up, or drop out of advanced classes, you are going to wish you had been working!”.  Gah, what a terrible mother I am!  Those are horrible threats to a sweet little 11 year old.  Seriously, I am embarrassed at what comes out of my mouth when I don’t get what I want!  So when I say we are getting honest with ourselves, I mean I am getting honest with MYSELF about my expectations and the why behind them.  Do I want a straight A student, or do I want my sweet girl to understand the material she should be learning?  Do I want an open, honest, supportive relationship with her, or do I want to scare her into doing what pleases mommy dearest?  This pain will continue as I uncover my own agenda and hopefully replace it with something that’s a little easier to look at;/. Another mom-fail, but maybe a chance to turn it around, too. NO PICTURES AS WE PRETTY MUCH DIDN’T LEAVE THE HOUSE

Day 31 Wednesday, September 25:  We took the bus!  It was so much fun:). We found out where we needed to be, we hopped on, and off we went.  Wednesday is our day to go to The American Library and The American Church for choir (Geer loves to say he is proud to be an American, especially when I point how incredibly loud we all are).  We’ve been several times on the Metro and know that route well, but the bus was totally different.  There was so much to see!  So many places I want to return to on foot!  We really liked this experience, even though there was no one on a loud speaker explaining the monuments to us.  We stop for the second week in a row at this little Asian quick-stop.  They have interesting things in a glass case that they warm up for you.  The kids loved it, and for 4 Euro they both got several things-on-a-stick.  I couldn’t bring myself to eat it, but happy they are happy!   When I get hungry and can’t find the right thing to eat, I just drink more coffee, which probably accounts for the thousands…no, millions, of words and run-on sentences on this blog.  Thank you, tiny cup of espresso!!  Anywhoo, we walk toward the Library, snapping photos of the kids holding the Eiffel Tower on the way.   We sign in at the front and have a look.  I get a book of Rick Bragg’s short stories…nothing makes you feel more like home than a true southern story from the heart, and I think he is LOL funny.  I’m also trying to get through the September Vogue before they put it away.  This week, though, the kids won’t leave me alone!  They keep pestering me and this is supposed to be ME time.  You have to be quiet at the library, right?  Well, we will have new rules next week.  I buy the kids a .50 hot chocolate from the machine and we meet Geer’s friend, Raphael, outside to walk to the church.  He lives near the library and so he is going to walk with us sometimes, yay!  We sing choir songs, listen to Raphael’s adorable Australian accent, and get to choir just in time for the kids to start their practice.  More ME time:)  I do love watching and hearing their choir practice.  I LOVE their teacher, and she is magical on the piano, and those sweet voices raised together is special.  At the end, I get to talk to a few other moms who come in and learn more about what they are doing in Paris.  Some are here for a short time.  Some are here to stay.  We rush off again because Carson has dance:)  Running around has always been my specialty.  We walk Carson to her class and go explore for a few minutes.  I like to get Geer (and maybe me, too) a treat while she’s in dance.  We find the BOMB of a mini-cupcake place around the corner and Geer goes for cookies and cream.  We run in to our landlord and have a chat with him.  We pick up a few groceries and it’s time to get the girl, head home, have a bite and try to finish this school work!  Thank you, teachers, for your time and talents and tenacity with these tiny tudents(had to keep the Ts going). 

Day 32 Thursday, September 26:  When I look back through my pictures to remember what we’ve done, I see that in my spare time, I am constantly looking up stuff to do and see in and around Paris and taking screen shots of it.  I have more notes than we could possibly have time to complete.  I’m also TRYING to read (I mean, read books, not facebook.  I don’t have trouble with that).  There is a huge market on Thursdays near the Bastille.  So, we hammer out some school and head there around 1pm.  The walk anywhere is always fun.  Even going somewhere so close, we see many many shops and sites that we’ve never noticed before.  We wander through the secret gardens at the Archives, totally surrounded by high walls so you’d never know it was there. We slip into the Swatch Watch store for the one hundredth time, walk through Place de Vosages, where we have been before, but notice a play ground area in the corner that we have yet to explore.  The kids climb on the sets meant for ages 6 and under, probably.  The local high school kids get out for lunch so they are smoking and vaping in the corners of the square.  The kids always laugh because we can tell when we think people are cursing and swearing and talking dirty, but we can’t understand them:) On to the market!  This place is a dizzying array of flowers, fruit stands, vegetable stands, honey makers, crepes, pastries, ethnic foods from all over, fish, cured meats.  Basically, if you can dream of any raw ingredient, it is here.  We don’t really need much but we get a few vegetables and some fruit, crepes for lunch.  We are there at the end of the market, and some stalls are spreading out their products that won’t last for anyone to take home.  This reminded me of leaving the corners of your fields for others to glean when they are in need.  When you have extra, give it away.  We also marvel at the work put in to setting up these booths for just a few hours on one day!  Then they pack it all up, load it all up, and probably take it to another market either later in the same day, or the next day.  Hard work.  We stop at the Monoprix on the way home to get the canned ingredients we need to make chili.  The kids get the giggles (which is all too common here) in the Monoprix and they are acting all American, drawing looks from all around.  I REALLY wanted to make cornbread, but alas, no cornmeal here.  We stop in at another church we have passed many times, Saint-Paul Saint-Louis.  It is breathtakingly beautiful as well with dizzying domes and stained glass and sculptures and paintings all lit in the glow of candles representing prayers of people.  I can’t say that I see much active religion or faith here, compared to the number of people.  But the churches are scattered like beacons of hope for the future and represent the faith of the past.  I am praying for revival in Europe.  Revival for myself and my town and my country, too.  I make the chili, we eat the chili.  It’s good, but not like home.  We miss home sometimes, but remind ourselves how special, even sacred, this time it. 

Day 33 Friday, September 27:  It’s Friday, YAY!  I am super-pumped because my friend, Mary-Alison, and her hubs Andy, are going to be here later today.  I get the kids going on their schoolwork.  I do some laundry, kind of jogging around town while I do it.  I don’t like to leave the kids for long, so I’ll run to the laundry mat then run back up to the apartment.  Then I’ll run to the fruit stand, then run back up.  Then I’ll go put the clothes in the dryer, then run back up to the flat.  If anyone cared they would think I’m crazy!  I.am.so.excited.  I SHOWER!  I fix my hair!  Wow!  The kids are in awe:)  I clean up to show off the best of what we have to offer:).  They get here and the kids run down the 3 flights to escort them in.  We have a great visit, catching up on home and what they’ve been doing in Paris so far.  The kids talk and talk and I realize that Carson & Geer might be bored of just talking to me and each other:/. Hmmm.  Andy and Mary-Alison took a food tour in my neighborhood because that’s how cool our neighborhood is…isn’t that just…cool!?!  I ask for their notes because I’m not cool and I think going to some of these places might help me.  I leave the kids and we go across the street to the non-stop sidewalk cafe and split a bottle of lovely wine, thank you Bauers!  It was such a nice break and a connection to home.  They leave for their Louvre tour and the kids wrap up their school.  We are feeling alive and electric so we have to a REAL restaurant…where they actually sit you down and take your order!  This place, Breizh, is not far from where we let Mr. Jingles free a few days ago.  I hope he doesn’t show back up.  Breizh is on a lot of lists…one of the best creperies in Paris.  The Chef has a restaurant with a Michelin star, which is supposed to mean something, and there are now multiple Breizh restaurants in Paris and Japan.  My friend told me Breizh means Brittany, and the restaurant is representative of that area of France, near the North coast, I think.  The cider is a big deal.  They have a soft apple cider for kids and harder one for people who have to deal with kids.  It’s a casual, quick cafe and perfect for us.  I order a special savory galette (more of a buckwheat thin pancake) with cheese, fried egg, seared duck breast and tiny green beans.  It was interestingly delicious.  Kids went with ham and cheese plus an egg on top.  But the dessert crepe list was insane!  I really wish we had eaten dinner at home and come for dessert alone.  We had the seasonal peach crepe featuring slightly caramelized peaches, fresh cream, homemade ice cream, strawberry compote and a crunchy almond brittle topping.  Ummm, yea.  The problem with this night is the kids.  They are in to tickling me lately, and the few times I am ticklish, they go wild.  It was kind of cool out, so I’m bundled up in the few cool-weather items I brought.  And it is a tight squeeze into this restaurant (and into my clothes considering the food I’ve forced myself to indulge in).  They start tickling me.  And the WON’T STOP.  I am dying and I can hardly move.  I am giving them ‘the look’. I say “really”, stop it.  That’s always been our serious word.  But they have changed it to FartPoopDoodie (Geer is 9).  I even say this to get them to stop, but if you can say FartPoopDoodie with a straight face then you are a better woman than I am.  Needless to say, I don’t know that we will be welcomed back to Cafe Breizh anytime soon, but we loved it!  On the walk home there is an art shop in the community hall.  We walk through, awkwardly viewing all types of art including lots of body parts.  The kids still have the giggles.  There is one artist who has a table full of jewelry.  It is all so clever.  She finds, or makes from clay, tiny miniatures and puts them on pens, necklaces or earrings.  Tiny little art pallets and tubes of paint.  Tiny little donuts and cups of coffee.  Tiny doll heads.  Tiny pencils and rulers and anything you could think of, brightly colored and often hand painted.  This was the kids favorite booth, and we enjoyed talking with the artist.  The kids already had the idea, but a pair of her earrings sealed the deal.  For Halloween, they want to be Nutella and A Spoon.  Fitting, since this has become a regular meal in our Parisian household. 

September 28-October 10, 2019

Day 34 Saturday, September 28:  Saturday!  We have some fun plans today, but first, we need to finish a little school.  Kids work on that and I work on packing us up for a sleepover at the McLaughlins!  I’ve also been messaging with a friend of a coworker of a friend of a friend.  She lives in France and is from Alabama…I think she’s a tour guide.  I must admit, I’m picturing a 30-something young girl who set off in a dreamy haze to France and is living large.  After all, I have messaged with her a few times earlier and she was in Nice for the summer, then traveling to Russia for a week or so.  She’s really on the go.  So, we finally connect and she says she’ll come by the apartment on her way to catch the train to Nice again (this girl!!!).  We wait and mid afternoon she buzzes in and has her suitcase, so we go down to meet her.  I was right, she came to France at 30 years old after just finishing her graduate degree.  This was some 40+ years ago, though.  This amazing lady is STILL killing it here.  She has several rental properties in Nice and in Paris (the kids helped her message some potential renters), she speaks 3 or more languages and is a certified international tour guide.  She is busier than I ever thought about being!  We loved have a drink and a pastel de nata with her and learning about France and her life here.  What a treat!  So, once we split ways, the kids and I head over to the 16th to meet up with our friends. They take us to an amazing, huge park where the kids play for hours.   Then, they walk us around their neighborhood, which is more residential and a little more quiet compared to ours, but still has everything you would need right outside your door.  They serve us an amazing meal of lasagne and baguette and chocolate they brought back from Amsterdam.  We play ‘In the bag’ and laugh and laugh at the Iron Lady gesture from Geer, Carson’s picture of Oprah, and the fact that Donald Trump made it into the game 2 times!  We fall in to bed tired and thankful again to have met friends that we all enjoy.  Betsy’s husband was out of town for work, which made this fun and games sleepover possible:).

Day 35 Sunday, September 29: The next morning, they serve us fresh crepes with Nutella, strawberries and banana slices.  YUM!  We may never leave.  Off to church for another great service.  Something about Sundays and rain…We get back to our neighborhood soaked a little, but still have enough energy to explore the department store close to our home, le BHV.  We have walked through it as a shortcut through the metro, but haven’t looked through the 6 floors of clothing, cosmetics and fragrance, every kitchen gidget, gadget, gizmo you may need for the perfect pasta or coffee or wine and cheese service…anything.  They even have a huge floor of furnishings, beds, beautiful French bedding and towels and amazing views over the rooftops of Paris.  There is a gourmet floor that I get a little lost on, and now we are so hungry that we have the Sunday buffet there and feel like we may never need to eat again!  On the ground floor as we exit, you will find a city block of hardware, paint, knobs, cleaning supplies, light fixtures, wallpaper, closet inserts, etc.  This is like a museum in itself!  We barely scratch the surface of this place, but off to home we go to get ready for another week and spend a little time on the phone catching up with some family and friends.

Day 36 Monday, September 30:  School, school, school!  It’s really getting in the way of our fun!  We try to wrap up early because our friends from home are coming over for lunch-yessss!  They arrive and tell us about the wonderful meals and exploring they’ve been doing. Am I a tad bit jealous that all my meals are kid-friendly and don’t include champagne? Mabye so!  We head over a few blocks for a proper French lunch.  It was yummy and so nice to sit down and chat!  After, we walk around our area looking for chocolate and wine from their previous food tour and find that much of Le Marais is closed on Monday!  Actually, many museums and shops and restaurants are closed on Monday and Tuesday.  It’s hard to keep up, so NOTE TO SELF: No such thing as too much research:).  It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed walking the interesting streets of the Marais with Andy and MA and were sad to see them go.  Off we ran to get Carson to dance class.  I took Geer home so he could chill and I ran around getting more groceries and such…what am I actually buying?  I don’t know??  We find a bakery that has a 1 euro little hame and cheese sandwich and voila!  Dinner is served:)  Kids finally turn in and I continue my research research research! 

Day 37 Tuesday, October 1:  We have MORE big plans today, so we try to plow through school and get ready to host our friends for a little bit.  The McLaughlins come over and we walk around le Marais, showing them the sights.  We stop at Place de Vosges and the kids play on this gorgeous day.  We continue on to Bastille and to the Canal, checking out the houseboats.  And what do you know it, but a huge black cloud appears from nowhere!  So, we race through the streets towards home and with less than 5 minutes left, the bottom drops out.  I mean, cats and dogs are in these raindrops!  We duck under the canopy of a little cafe and are basically crowded around the table of 2 diners, who end up being from the US.  We enjoy chatting with them and as we decide to chance it, the server brings us 2 giant umbrellas.  SO NICE!  We will be back (to bring the umbrellas of course, but to eat, too!).  We get as far as the ice cream store and decide we need to take a break and we all enjoy yet another treat.  At our house, we offer what we have to them…some salami, cheese, olives, cheese.  Finally, time to head out!  We all take the Metro to the Trocadero.  I have seen the Eiffel Tower many times not, but not from here.  THIS is the place!  There is a somewhat famous crepe stand, so we all participate and support it before we ooh and ahh at the Eiffel Tower from this viewpoint. It is so large and I just love this view, with the city around it.  We scored free tickets to a concert for tonight’s event, and the artist is Dido!  I forgot that I even knew who she was, but of course some songs hide in the recesses and I remembered, “I want to thank you for giving me the best day of my life.”  Was it raining cats and dogs again?  Yes.  Were we soaked to the bone?  Yes.  But at least it wasn’t cold, and when the Eiffel Tower turned PINK in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness month and we were basically right under it, it was totally worth the hassle.  It was just beautiful!  The kids jumped around and enjoyed the festivities and we made it home safe again and happy to have had this experience.  And I am thankful for the best days of my life…like sands through the hourglass, these are the Days of Our Lives (oh wait, that’s another memory hiding back there!)

Day 38 Wednesday, October 2:  School days, school days, dear old golden rule days.  Music does a number on a person!  Well, with everything going this week, I waited until today to do my laundry.  And did I mention that we are going to Normandy?  So I am researching like crazy, trying to run around the corner to wash, to switch, to dry, to fold, to bring home.  It’s a bit of a relay.  Geer’s new friend, Raphael, has a mom, Laure, and she has invited us to come up to their apartment before choir, so we race to the Library to return our books and get up to their apartment.  It’s always fun to see where people live.  They have owned this place for years, but this is the first time they’ve lived here themselves as they are normally in Australia.  It’s HUGE compared to our place…3 bedrooms and a proper kitchen and a dining table and a balcony that stretches all across the front with views over the city and an amazing view of the gilded dome over Napoleon’s tomb.  It was cool.  I enjoyed chatting with her and drinking Nespresso (Santa!) while Raphael taught Geer how to play marbles.  Then off we go to choir where the kids get ready for their Sunday performance.  No solo this time, but they are singing a great song about the spirit of the Lord in your heart.  I love to hear them practice.  Then after, they run around like monkeys who have been caged for most of their life.  In preparation for Normandy, I decide a visit to the Army Museum is a must.  It’s at Invalides, and the building alone is impressive, 4 huge sides and a huge courtyard in the middle.  We only have 2 hours, which is not enough, but the kids are…how can I put this…not that interested?  Bored out of their wits again?  They try to feign interest.  I give it my best “find one thing in this room that interest you”.  They find some cool cannon replicas and kind of like the tiny toy soldiers (I LOVED the toy soldiers.  The started off as flat tin soldiers that were each hand painted in the colors and costumes of their country.  Then, they started making molded metal soldiers instead.  The display of card army men was so cool…each card hand painted, then cut out and put on a little stand.). We wander through the French history section and finally get to the calvary and armor section, but we run out of time and don’t even get to see the WW1 and WWII sections:(. Mom fail.  The kids just kept asking for a snack.  Another Mom fail.  We do get to see Napoleon’s tomb before we leave and it was also super cool.  They rush us out just in time for another rain storm-what!?!  We run for blocks to the Metro and get home wet again.  I actually cook dinner at home while the kids get cleaned up and dried off.  I just love being with these two. turkeys, even if they aren’t that into history, we are making our own, and I love that.

Day 39 Thursday, October 3:  Do I even have to say it?  SCHOOL!  Every single day!  Oh well:)  After school, we meet our friends at the Grevin Wax Museum.  This was a fun museum for them.  Wax soldiers, wax celebrities, wax history figures, a wax Pope, a wax Donald, a wax Queen.  Then there was a whole section about French history, in wax of course.  Would you believe there was a wax George Clooney? I always thought Kelli Clooney had a nice ring to it.  I asked Geer to take my picture with George, and he was so funny about it!  He tried to cut George out because he said I was already married and that Daddy wouldn’t like it.  I almost cried I laughed so hard.  We explored more covered shopping areas, one full of children’s stores.  The kids looked for a long time at legos and model airplanes and music instruments and art kits.  Geer spent a few dollars on some marbles.  Betsy left with Edy to get her to a writing class and we walked home, exploring new areas of Paris and picking up a roast chicken and potatoes cooked in duck fat (oh yeah!) for dinner.  They loved having a friend over to just play-kind of like home I guess!  Will is a great guest and both the kids love to hang out with him.  Betsy and her hubs Jeff came to our area to pick Will up and I met them for a glass of wine before they headed home.  What a nice day we had!

Day 40 Friday, October 4:  Another catch up day. Is that all we do?  We give it the old college try and finally take a break to go for a walk.  We find this unbelievable bakery.  Apparently, they have 2 specialties.  We will have to return later for their chocolate chip brioche.  Today, we tackle these cakes made of merengues, layered with cream and coated with something delicious like chocolate or specious cookies or crunchy caramel or crushed pistachios.  We also find a cute kitschy toy shop with repeating animals and joke books and the kids are thoroughly entertained here.  We explore near the Bastille and find an awesome kids store called Bonton.  It’s 3 levels of beautiful clothing and kids room decor and toys and a shoe parlor and a salon!  So, Carson gets a French trim:). I tried to get her to cut Geer’s hair, but she really didn’t seem to have a vision for it.  Go figure. Carson looks fresh and as beautiful as ever, oui.  On our way home, we spot a pizza place that was on my list from some late night research and boy is it good!!  After, we pass Place des Vosges again.  Still amazed this is in our neighborhood…it is the oldest square in Paris, lined with trees and houses built starting around 1612 (previous hotel on this site dated from the 1300’s).  The Louis XIII architecture is charming, it’s a perfect square surrounding a park with a fountain in the middle.  The beautiful, symmetrical arcades have antique shops, art shops, pastry shops, restaurants and cafes.  In the 1600’s, the square hosted duel practice, tournaments and parades.  It was a favorite of French aristocrats and many famous French have lived here, including Victor Hugo.  On one side, there is now an empanada shop and tonight they happen to be offering a free make-your-own empanada.  We are stuffed with pizza, but if anyone knows me they know I don’t pass up FREE!  The kids had a blast.  It’s after dark, so our Nan wouldn’t be happy (the kids remind me anytime we are out late), but we make it home happy and just in time to watch a family movie again…our favorite thing to do pretty much anywhere.  At the rate of our consumption, we are going to need a bigger bed for movies when we get home:)

Day 41 Saturday, October 5:  It’s the weekend.  It’s the weekend.  We go shopping, we watch soccer and we sleep in!   That’s our little running joke/weekend song…feel free to change it as you see fit.  We leave Geer at home and head off to do a little shopping at Les Halles because it’s getting cold and I guess we didn’t think of that!  We head home to get the boy and take off for the Library.  They offer an acting clinic with a local theater group.  This is precious time for the kids to be with other kids, and they seem to enjoy it.  After, our friends walk us to the Parc de Princes, home of the Paris Saint Germain soccer team.  I had hoped that Geer would be able to play some soccer here, but in the area where we live, there’s not much soccer right now.  They play in the summer and there are leagues but most are outside of the city.  He’s pretty bummed he missed soccer this year, so this is me trying to make up for it.  Apparently PSG is the bomb!  They are the most successful French football club in history.  I have to confess, I know almost nothing about soccer and totally nothing about this league, but we head off to the game feeling lucky.  Geer knows very little, too, but he’s excited.  I’m in awe that it doesn’t seem so crazy as we approach the stadium.  I think it’s because everyone comes in on public transportation so there aren’t a million cars crowding the street.  The Parc holds a max of 50,000 fans, and there are probably close to that many here at their October home opener.  No cheerleaders, but several sections of fans who keep the cheers going.  There’s a fair share of painted bodies and flags and horns.  It was so fun!  Of course, they crushed their opponent 3-0 without even really trying.  I nervously lead the kids out thinking the metro will be wild, but with trains coming every minute, it only took us about 30 minutes to get from the stadium into the train and headed home.  We would have made it, too, except Carson had to go to the ‘toilette’ so badly that we had to hop off at a random stop.  NOTE TO SELF:   Make children go to the restroom ALL.THE.TIME.  Anyway, we rush off and I tell her to walk confidently into this nice restaurant and find the restroom like she belongs there.  It works.  The night is nice and I’m so cheap that I insist we walk the rest of the way since we’ve already used our Metro ticket.  I’m so glad I’m so cheap.  As soon as we turn on Rue de Rivoli, the main boulevard that leads to our home, we see a parade!  It’s Nuit Blanch…the White Night celebration around the city.  I had forgotten because we had other plans, but this night many museums stay open late and art installations can be found all over town.  The final float of the parade is a strange, space-like float with lots of plastic and fans.  Something white is being blown from the float.  We get closer and find that it’s cotton candy!  The kids (along with thousands of our closest friends) chase the float, eating some of the cotton candy and basically getting a candy coating of their own.  They eat and eat and eat.  I finally pull them away and we walk ahead, faster than the parade, to see dancing ladies, men in kilts, bagpipes and various parade entertainers.  It was such a fun close to a great Saturday. 

Day 42 Sunday, October 6:  What’s the deal with the rain, Paris?  Seriously!  And ALWAYS on Sunday.  Anyway, we make our trek to the American Church in Paris.  The kids are singing in the service again.  They robe up and I take a walk to get some breakfast because….it’s the weekend and we sleep in:).  When I get back, they are done with the run through and I feed them and find out that they helped themselves to some coffee in the fellowship hall, and liked it!  Who knew?  More choir members turned out this week and they did a beautiful rendition of “Little Wheel a Turning”.  Each month, there is a ladies’ bible study following the service and a kids bible study at the same time.  We went to our perspective classes.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time with these women of all ages, all races, and from countries far and near.  Our theme is forgiveness.  We end the study with 3 minutes of silent meditation.  Tears run down my cheeks as I think about all the forgiveness I have been given and all the forgiveness I have withheld.  How and why would I be so unforgiving when God forgives me before I even ask?  I’m so thankful that God doesn’t give up on me and thankful for this time of reminder.  Betsy has so generously offered to take the kids to the Longchamp Hippodrome for a Horse Race (I’m sported out).  The sun is finally shining and the kids head off.  I’m thinking to myself, what am I going to do without the kids?  It’s a strange feeling.   My mom’s sense of direction is…how can I say this delicately?  Terrible?  Non-existent?  But if you tell my mom to get to a mall, she will make it there.  I guess I have a little Pam in me, because that’s where I go.  I walk the floors of Printemps, one of the big department stores, hoping to find some threads for the children.  I admire that parents actually pay these prices for their kids…these people must be filthy rich!  I can only afford food here, so I hit the top floor and settle in for a wonderful lunch of salad with goat cheese toast points and vino and a view of the Eiffel tower.  This is living!  I walk over to the Zara (more my speed) and wait in line with the masses to try on more affordable fashion.  Finally, I head to Galeries, my favorite department store.  It has an AMAZING stained glass globe top that makes you feel pretty spectacular just to be there.  I see tons of Asians literally lined up against velvet ropes waiting to get in LV for their new bag and all kinds of women waiting outside the Gucci shop-in-a-shop for their new belts.  I head to the shoe floor where I feel at home.  This is a whole floor…which is a whole city block…of shoes.  I am on a mission, though, to find some sneakers that aren’t Vans or Adidas.  My friend Betsy introduced me to Veja and I love the story and the look.  It’s a French brand, but the materials and production methods are ecologically-friendly (is that a term?) and much of the material is recycled.  I find my pair and hit the train home to meet Betsy and kids.  We hang around the house and eat what I have left at home…nuts, crackers with peanut butter and honey, some cheese, a little cured meat and wine.  It was delicious!  Ready to start another week!

Day 43 Monday, October 7:  Have I mentioned that I am sorry this is so long?  Let me just cut to the chase.  We head to the Foundation Louis Vuitton to meet the McLaughlins for an exhibit.  Are we running late?  Yes.  Did we run 3 blocks the wrong way when we exited the Metro in a new part of town?  Yes.  Is it really my fault?  Yes.  Do I try to blame the kids anyway?  Yes.  There, I said it, are you happy?  You’ll recognize this building, designed by Frank Gehry.  It kind of looks like a glass and metal Noah’s Ark.  Super cool.  Anyway, there are no handbags or leather here, but there is a new exhibit about Charlotte Perriand.  This women was a pioneer of modernity and a leader during life (1903-1999).   She was a designer/architect and a contemporary of Picasso.  She worked with artists to create functionality and unity in art and furnishings.  She also didn’t get the credit she deserved for her innovative ideas.  Basically, if you see it at Ikea, Charlotte thought of it first.  She really did so much more, all over the world, but one of her first big projects was in Japan.  In honor, there were real Japanese artists sampling dance and song and instruments for us in a small theater setting.  I know these instruments must have been old and primitive, but the songs have no rhythm, no beat.  And the intense and profuse effort to make this primitive flute blow paired with the moaning chants and ancient dance and kimonos somehow turned the tickle box of the kids and me.  We couldn’t contain it.  We tried.  We failed. We wailed. We cried we laughed so hard. One look from them and I was undone.  Yes, that was the highlight of the day:). That’s all I’ve got!

Day 44 Tuesday, October 8:  I’m afraid we will have to stay another month for me to catch up on my recaps of what we’ve done.  I’m going to make this on easy.  Geer got a haircut.  We loved the young Brazillian stylst, with a similar hairstyle.  Geer’s hair looked great when we left.  Next day, it looks just the same.  Wild and crazy. 

Day 45 Wednesday, October 9:  It’s Wednesday, choir day!  Our friends from choir have asked us to come early and have lunch at their apartment (the amazing one with the view of the gold dome above Napoleon’s tomb).  We run around trying to find some fantastic dessert to take and finally get the merengues we loved.  We arrive and have a lovely lunch of chicken and potatoes and salad and sweets.  It was great to be around friends.  I take the kids off to choir and enjoy their rehearsal again.  After, we grab a coffee.  Actually, we don’t grab it because they don’t really grab stuff the way we do (and they don’t drink Starbucks, either.  They actually frown on it.  There are many Starbucks here, so someone is drinking it, but it doesn’t seem to be the French).  We stop in the cafe, sit at the counter, order the delicious cappuccino.  The kids order lemonade with Grenadine…a new thing they are loving.  We receive said drinks, enjoy them, pay for them, then head out.  We walk to the Champ de Mars (the huge green space, playground, etc. at the foot of the Eiffel Tower) for a little table tennis.  Laure has the instruments we need because they are regular table tennis players.  Raphael is good.  Laure is good.  Jullian the 5 year old is good.  But Geer is too!  I was so impressed with his skills.  Gotta get him some ping pong when we get home.  I know you’re tired of hearing this, but it started to rain.  No, it started to pour!  We run run run through the park to the nearest metro and head home soaked to the bone.  Dinner at home and a little family movie to wrap up the day.  

Day 46 Thursday, October 10:  Basically, we are busy getting caught up on school, laundry and cleaning before Edgar comes-yay yay yay!  We did have a bit of a fiasco.  The neighbor locked his keys inside his apartment while I was out doing laundry.  He knocked on the door and wanted to come in to climb over the 4th story roof to get to his window.  Yep.  Nope.  Thankfully, the kids did the right thing.  They refused to open the door, told the man they were not allowed, even though he begged.  They called Edgar and they called me and I literally ran to get home.  This is what I get when I leave for a minute!  We checked in on the neighbor to apologize for not being able to help, and he understood.  After we recap the situation, we run a few errands and pick up some Normandy guides from our new chocolate shop friend, Natalie.  We also tried homemade marshmallows!  They were yummy (and I don’t really love marshmallows). We picked up a few French drug store beauty products and some Falafel and Shawarma before heading home to pack up for our Normandy Invasion starting tomorrow:). We are busting at the seems to see Edgar in the morning. Stay tuned… broadcasting next from Normandy, France!

October 11-October 14, 2019

Day 47 Friday, October 11:  We are excited!  We’ve been researching and planning for a trip to Normandy while Edgar is in town and it’s finally here!  His flight arrives around 6 am, so we get up about that time and leave our apartment by 7 and head for Gare du Nord.  We find our way to the car rental desk while Edgar is making his way via RER to this station from the airport.  We are grabbing coffee when Carson sees him across the way.  She’s missed him SO much!  After a happy (but tired) reunion, he pulls out 6 CHIC-FIL-A SANDWICHES!  What?!?!  I must give credit where it’s due…this was Geer’s idea and we told Edgar a month ago.  I totally forgot, so naturally we are clucking with delight.  After a lengthily rental car procedure, Edgar is behind the wheel of a Citroen Picasso and we take to the streets of Paris.  He insists that if you drive like them and honk they will get out of the way.  The kids are excited to catch up with him, and also happy to be sitting in a car with their devices and just chilling.  We make our way to Bayeux, our first stop.  I’ve been telling Edgar and the kids that we will see the Bayeux Tapestry and as we pull in to this sleepy town with just a few retirees headed to the museum, I know Edgar suspects this is typical tourist trap material.  We park and go through a beautiful cathedral.  Geer always says the churches are his favorite park.  Finally we are at the tapestry.  This thing is, if you can picture it, 70 meters long (that’s  230 feet so I’m told), about 4 feet tall and, oh, almost 1,000 years old!  It was all hand-embroidered to recount the story of William the Conqueror’s invasion of England and the Battle of Hastings.  It’s basically like a huge modern-day graphic novel.  We have headsets that tell us the details and I thought it was just amazing.  There is a 20 minute film about it and wouldn’t you know Edgar and Carson use this time to nap:). We then head to the coast and eat fish and chips at a little shop and walk around the rocky shore for a bit before heading up up up a hill to Arromanches.  There is an amazing 360 degree WWII video that is so moving.  Then you walk out onto the cliff and they have metal statues of soldiers in battle and memorials.  It was very moving and I choked up when I read one plaque, “It was either him or me”.  We find the Citroen and head for the next stop, the American Cemetery.  Again, I’ve seen pictures, but to be there and see the vast number of white marble crosses, to hear taps played and see the American flag flying over this place where so many lost their lives was a surreal experience.  Back in the car, we criss cross Normandy and head for Mont Saint-Michel…another 2 hours away.  Have I mentioned that Edgar is amazing!  He flew for, I don’t know, almost a whole day of travel time, then drove us 3 hours, toured around, and now 2 more!  We stop at a grocery and get some local cheese and wine and apple juice for the kids (apples, cider, calvados, cheese, yogurt, caramel…these are all specialties of this region).  We get to our really dated hotel just over the bridge from Mont Saint-Michel and pile into one hotel room and devour 4 cold Chic-fil-a sandwiches.  Edgar made it through 1/2 glass of wine and he was out.  The kids and I giggle our way through a French cooking show on tv and finally get to sleep…happy to be together.  

Day 48 Saturday, October 12:  We sleep in.  Hey, it’s the weekend!  When we finally get going, I realize the free breakfast (code word free) ends momentarily and the free English tour of the Abbey begins shortly after that.  I, in motherly overdrive, dash to the restaurant while kids and hubs get dressed.  I make their plates laden with croissant, baguette, toast, jam, butter, yogurt, cheese…whatever is left, and get it on the table.  They show up and I run back to pack up the room while they finish.  We load the car and hop on the tram to the Mont.  With only minutes to spare, we race up the bazillion steps to the Abbey at 80M high, and can I just say, we arrive at the precise tour start time.  Lucky today.  Our tour guide was amazing.  Without the tour, we would have loved walking through the Abbey, but she made it come alive, telling us how the Abbey was birthed from a dream of a nearby bishop, the historical uses for religion, as a symbol of French resistance and even a prison since it’s inception in the 11th century, the uses for each room, the importance of the Abbey to the religious leaders, the aristocracy and the commoners.  This is such a beautiful and unique place….at high tide the mountain village is completely surrounded by water.  Oh, and this is a world heritage site AND the inspiration for some of the Lord of the Rings movie scenes or some other nonsense.  Look it up-it’s breathtaking!  Even now, you can find Monks and Nuns and services daily.  There are sites other than the Abbey (including a famed omelet known to be the best in the world, but at 28 euro, we just ate the free breakfast instead), a few eateries, souvenir shops, yayaya.  But we hit the road when we finished, leaving the breathtaking Abbey in our dust.  Next stop is Saint-Mere-Eglise and the little town were paratroopers inadvertently landed on D-Day.  At this point, my crew is getting museum-nausea.  We hop out to see the church and they still have a fake parachuter hanging from the spires.  Kinda creepy, but a stark reminder none-the-less of what happened.  We squeal past Utah Beach, hop in and out of a few bunkers and find ourselves on tiny roads that don’t even show on the map.  Thank you National Car Rental for installing a GPS or else we wouldn’t still be married.  We pop in for some of the best caramels EVER in a little road-side shop, then we head to our final D-Day location, Pointe du Hoc.  With Utah to the left and Omaha to the right, this was a very important location to be overtaken.  It was just unbelievable to see the sheer cliffs that had to be scaled, the bunkers, the huge crater leftover from artillery, I think.  We all watched The Longest Day earlier in the week (it was wonderful) and so we had images in our mind of what it was like, but to smell it and touch it and walk on it was something else.  We wrap up our D-Day adventures and drive another hour or so to Caen, a city that was pretty much wiped out during WWII so it’s new and more modern.  We unpack, take a walk and find a little Brasserie (the kids love to say “Brazere” everytime we see a Brasserie) for dinner in one of the few streets untouched by WWII.

Day 49 Sunday, October 13:  If I said they had museum-nausea earlier, they are full-on ready to be done with this trip now.  I pictured us strolling around Caen, a nice brunch, maybe another cathedral or museum, stopping in Giverny to spend a few hours with Monet and the impressionists then meandering home.  What I got was throw your bags in the car, eat a croissant, a Giverny drive-by… you can almost see it in the rear-view mirror, squeal into Paris going over 120 (yes I know it’s km, but it still seems fast) and whip around the Arc de Triomphe like real Parisians as 12 other avenues of traffic merge to meet us, ditch the Citroen at the train station and ride it home!  It was a lot to fit into 48 hours. After we clean up a bit, Dad does let us show him around our neighborhood.  We take him to our regular laundromat, walk through the secret gardens at the Archives, grab a few sweet treats at a bakery and take up seats at the cafe on the corner.  We finish piled into bed and listen to our current Harry Potter book on audible.  It’s the little things.

Day 50 Monday, October 14:  It’s Dad’s last day in Paris.  We were invited over to the McLaughlins for breakfast, so we really have something to look forward to.  We take the metro to their neighborhood and are treated with fresh crepes, nutella, whipped cream, fruit, eggs, coffee, oj and a great visit!  The kids were excited to see our friends and I enjoyed introducing Edgar to our favorite family in France.  At home, we all do a few hours of ‘work’ (my work is usually researching what we are going to eat, um, uh, I mean do).  It’s a nice day so we then take to the streets and walk along the Quai to the Tulleries and watch the kids have a blast on the playgrounds.  We take a circular, LONG route back home, at which point everyone was getting a little agitated.  Thankfully, we came to the Mexican restaurant recommended by Andy and MA near our neighborhood.  This place was on the smaller side.  Truly, only 12 people could sit inside at any time.  The kids bellied up to the bar and we stood and enjoyed frozen margaritas with spicy salt rim, guacamole and really really good carnitas street tacos.  It was simple food, but so good and such a welcomed change to what we’ve been eating.  In McKee fashion, we finish the night with our last family Glace at Grom and a little more Potter.  Paris has been good to us so far!

October 15-October 31, 2019

Day 51 Tuesday, October 15:  Edgar leaves and everyone is a little blue.  That’s all I can say.  So, we try a little music to soothe the soul.  We meet up with the McLaughlins at Park de Villette to go to the Museum of Music.  Honestly, we should always just go to a park because the kids really just want to run around, but instead, we end up begging and beating some culture into them!  This museum is AMAZING!  If you’ve ever heard of or dreamt up an instrument…it is here.  Along with an audio recording of someone playing it and commentary on the instrument groups, the period, the construction, etc.  It would take DAYS to take it all in.  We only had a few hours and did the best we could.  We were lucky enough to see and hear a magnificent Harp player as they have live music every day.  Wow.  It was so beautiful.  My favorite was the floor featuring instruments and music from different cultures with videos to match.  Honestly, we barely scratched the surface. I would go Bach to this museum in a heartbeat (see what I did there?).

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Day 52 Wednesday, October 16: If you’ve really been reading, you know that we hoof it over to the American part of Paris on Wednesdays and do our thing.  Today was a little different, though.  Our Aussie friend invited us to have lunch at a tea house before choir.  We dress up and head over to this wonderful, beautiful, floral-wallpapered tea room with desserts stacked high up on the buffets.  The menu is…limited…but we find it perfect!  Geer had an amazing omelet and Carson enjoyed a poached egg in one of those swanky, British-type egg holders.  I’m sure there’s a term for this but alas, it escapes me.  You cut off the top of the egg, butter your bread pieces and dip them into the yolk.  I think it’s called Egg-dunkers.  She likes it.  I have a perfect goat cheese and herb tart with a salad and a glass of wine and of course a dessert.  These friends are polished and funny.  I love it when Laure tells my kids they need to scoot up to the table or quiet down.  Hey, they usually listen to her, too!  It’s raining.  Again.  We rain dance to choir, hit up the library to return and check out more books and get our fifty cent chocolate chaud, drop off Raphael and wade our way toward the metro.  Our stop is near the Grand and Petite Palais.  Today, there is another modern art exhibit in the Petite Palais and it’s free, so we are going!  Guess what we find outside the Palais?  In the Rain?  It’s the Candy-floss blowing machine that was on the earlier parade float!!!  I learned this term just today.  It’s not cotton candy…that comes in a big blob.  This is Candy Floss, tiny threads of spun sugar that fly through the air from a huge blowing duct off of a platform and land in your hair, your sweater, on your shoes, your handbag, your CHILDREN!  They are COVERED in sugar.  People stop to stare.  Not at the machine but at them!  Seriously, if you want to get back at any moms in your town, have this contraption at your next 10 year old’s birthday party and invite all the kids to come, fully clothed, and leave with a glaze like a Krispie Kreme donut.  We wash off in the museum sink.  Kids each pick a favorite sculpture and we head home.  Kids have to shower up while I go get chocolates and wine to take to our playground friend, Pauline’s, house for dinner.  Hang with me here, I know this is long.  We were on time for once.  I could get use to an 8pm start.  Her grands are the same age as the kids, so I assumed they would be there.  Well, they have school and must get to bed like regular boys and girls, so it was just us, Pauline and 2 of her friends visiting from different parts of France.  Her wandering artist son and his friend were in the front room perfecting his nude sketch cutouts.  The kids were a great audience for that:/. Anyway, Pauline and her lovely friends show us to the Raclette, a Swiss piece of kitchen gadgetry that someone would have received in the 1970’s, clad with brownish-orange ceramic coating.  I’m including a more modern picture because sadly I didn’t take one.  Anyway, it is akin to the Fondue Pot, but oh so much more sophisticated and delicious.  She had boiled potatoes and roasted cauliflower and charcuterie to go along with it.  First you start with a little wine if you are old enough and only walking home (that’s me, and this place is new and unexpected so I must admit I need a little loosening up).  Then, you take your own personal-sized cast iron skillet, apply to that the creamiest, most delicious cheesy cheese you’ve ever seen in a small wedge.  Then you insert the skillet into its dedicated grilling location in the shared appliance and, voila, a few minutes later you have bubbling, boiling, browning cheese to “scrape”…aka “Raclette”…onto what you thought were sad, forgotten, boiled potatoes.  Bam!  Did someone say cheesy tots?  Sonic?  You can imagine that we put down a bushel of taters like we come from Vardaman.  Before the dessert of molten chocolate cake and praline filled chocolate pumpkins, Pauline and her friend introduce us to the music that their children are working on together.  So, these twenty-somethings are from France, moved to Berlin, and perform old-school 1950’s Brazilian music while writing and composing pieces with a similar style.  Pauline’s husband also has a cd that was played while the kids danced around the kitchen.  Her other children are artistic, too: one works in film and one in the production of a tv show you may have heard of…Survivor.  That’s what we will be if we get out of here alive, not consumed by the deadly trio of wine, cheese and chocolate.  It was a lovely evening.  Pauline told us of her life as a rebel (her words, not mine).  I want to hear more about that.  Her friend gently asked the kids questions in French and helped them answer correctly.  While I usually try to do something the kids will like, this is nothing I would have planned for them, but they had as much fun as anyone.  They are survivors for sure.  We roll ourselves home. 

Day 53 Thursday, October 17:  We sleep in from cheese coma.  School, school, school.  We prepare for my friend Raeanna’s arrival.  We run up to the massive Thursday market at the Bastille to get our fill of crepes and specialties. I get a chance to catch up with Mom & grandparents on the phone.  I talk to Lauren at the store to find they have everything under control.  I might just stay here.  It was an unremarkable day, really.  But, I do have one remarkable story from today, though,  We’ve been trying to journal and write bible verses, too (failure on all accounts, which is why I’m journalling.  I want these dolla-bills to pay off with the kids one day:)  Just kidding, but seriously if I didn’t write this all down, we would all forget the fun minutia of this trip.)  Earlier today, Geer and I were reviewing the systems of the body and mainly our bones in his science class. Anyway, we do the occasional devotional together, and today we read our verses and I was reading through the material with the kids.  What do you know but it’s all about bones!  Geer and I just looked at each other with astonishment.  It was like our science lesson all over again, but the added bonus of a reminder that we need bones of faith, and we need to keep our bones healthy by praying, praising, studying and telling the good news of Jesus…the most important bones to shape our life are the bones of faith.  We all agreed that God was with us today and everyday, and this was one of those God-winks to remind us that He will go to great lengths to assure us that He is near.  We need only to keep the faith. 

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Day 54 Friday, October 18:  Oh Mair-say-poo-poo.  That’s what Nan would say instead of “Merci boucoup” sometime and we just haven’t let that phrase go.  We are so excited to be having company!!!  I have been saving up so many fun things to do with Raeanna and Anna Stuart, and also have some favorite things that we want to repeat.  Raeanna assures me that they are coming as tourists and we need to pack the clock.  I’ve been researching and planning and finally I wrote all of our activities on little pieces of paper with their approximate time so I could arrange them.  Then I checked the weather and had to totes-rearrange. Oh well!  We busied ourselves with cleaning and laundry and school and preparing the perfect charcuterie plate for their arrival and then, BAM, it was here!  The roll in with our wonderful driver, Sothiro (as recommended by a friend…if you need his number please let me know).  They ooh and aah and claim this is the most wonderful place they have ever been.  It’s not.  Our apartment is on the shabby, small side but it is in a truly historic and happening area.  We feed them, and they have that glazed over, what time is it, look in their eyes.  We offer them a nap but they choose to press on!  So, off to the races we go, starting with a cruise on the River Seine.  Our first cruise was at night, so doing it during a day filled with sunshine was a totally different adventure.  The guide was great and every site was just breathtaking.  We pop off the boat and head out on foot for our next adventure…the Tuileries Gardens.  We pass the Louvre concourse on our way and glimpse the pyramids, run through a few picnics and make our way to Angelina’s for a REAL chocolate chaud.  This is the stuff.  Drinking chocolate.  Something you could go drunk on (Geer-ism).  Again, somehow I end up drinking most of everyone’s.  Hmmm.  We find the playground, and this is what kids all want!  Slides, spin-y things, climb-y things, other kids to race around and be the audience as you sing and dance and cheer and tumble.    Raeanna and I get a change to catch up, which is so good.  It starts to get dark, but the kids don’t notice.  It’s funny…ask them to stay at an art museum for an hour?  That’s hard.  But they would play here for hours on end!  We pull them away, grab a wonderful dinner, complete with our first Escargot of the trip, on Rue Cler, a wonderful old street full of vendors and stands and restaurants that is not to be missed.  Then, what else should you do on your first night in Paris?  Get to the top of the Eiffel Tower, that’s what!  

Day 55 Saturday, October 19:  Well, the kids stayed up late telling ghost stories and the pallet we made for Geer was vacated because of one of said stories, so there were 3 in the bed!  We let them sleep in a little, but Paris is calling!  In the rain, we Metro to Montmartre for breakfast at a little den I have been eyeing called Soul Kitchen.  It was packed (which I secretly always love), and really tasty.  My Alabama friend and tour guide, Margaret, lives in Montmartre so we ring her up and in no time she is joining us and telling us thing we never knew we didn’t know or even cared to know as we take the public bus-turned-tour-bus through the area!  Did you know that Montmartre means Mountain of the Martyr?  You can find the statue of Saint Denis with his head in his hands here.  He was a bishop who was sentenced to decapitation for preaching Christian faith to the Gallo-Romans around 250 AD.  If 1534, Saint Ignatius of Loyola and several others took the first steps in creation of the Jesuits, in vow to the remembrance and adherence to Saint Denis and his faith, at the first church in Montmartre.  And that’s just some of the history (and it’s probably not very accurate as it’s coming from a shoe salesman, so do your own research:).  Montmartre is very interesting and beautiful with sloping hills and delightful alleys.  Much of the landscape is molded by the mining for gypsum that was done here.  The beautiful Basilica of the Sacre Coeur was built on the hilltop starting in 1876 and is still a house of prayer, standing so tall, like a wedding cake, and can be seen from all over Paris.  In the 19th century, this area was famous for the cafes and dance halls that had arrived. Montmartre was just outside of the city limits, so Margaret calls them Honkey Tonks.  The famed Le Chat Noir and Moulin Rouge are close by, and so this area became super popular for writers and poets and artists.  Apparently the price was right for them.  Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec, among others, all have history in this bohemian area.  Today, it is still an artists-nook, but a little bit more commercialized.  We love our time with Margaret and bid her adieu to continue our day.  It says in our itinerary that we are going to the Catacombs, so we do.  Did I miss the stop entirely?  I did.  Did we have to walk a good 15 extra minutes?  We did.  Did we wait in line for 2 HOURS TO GET IN?  We did.  Don’t ask me if it was worth it because the 2 hours kinda rains on any parade.  We made the most of it, taking turns with lunch and watching the kids play in the green space.  The girls decided they would be street performers.  Honestly, their Greatest Showman medley was…great!  But the others in line just rolled their eyes and didn’t even put in a pence.  They either don’t have kids or don’t love theirs as much as I do…or maybe I’m just partial to mine.  I finally visit the grocery for a wine-on-the-go as we wait.  The Catacombs are amazing, though.  I believe the number I heard was 6 million Parisians’ bones found in these vast underground tunnels, in artistic display.  The tunnels are remnants of mining quarries and were also the spot for WWII underground activity.  Note To Self (and to anyone else, too): Get the advanced tickets here and anywhere you can if you event think it might be busy.  When the tour was over, we decided to check out Le Bon Marche.  This is considered THE original department store and a Paris institution for over 150 years.  The building itself is a marvel (architectural input from Gustave Eiffel may have helped).  We ooh and ahh and are reminded of our richness and our poorness all at the same time.  The shoe floor was insane.  No purchases, but lots of memories:)  We go off the map at this point and try a restaurant recommended by many sources, Le Relais de L’Entrecote (translation: The Relay of the Rib Steak).  We visit the oldest St. Germain location, but find out that the original family, Gineste de Saurs, has spawned many locations across the world.  No matter, this is the place, as attested to by the 45 minute line around the building.  I’m sure it doesn’t rank among fancy French food (though it is fancy and and it is French) because they only serve one thing…steak.  When you sit down, you are asked how you’d like your steak cooked and if you’d like a drink.  Then, a lovely salad arrives followed shortly by platters of the most perfect strips of steak and the most perfect, thin, crisp, golden frites, all covered in the Cafe de Paris sauce.  This sauce.  mmm.  No words, but the ingredient list goes like butter, cream, thyme, dijon, butter and butter.  Truly, this was one of the best meals we’ve had.  And the kids held up ok! 

Day 56 Sunday, October 20:  I have felt GREAT the whole time we’ve been here, and apart from Carson having a stubborn fever blister, thankfully we have all been healthy.  But I wake up feeling cruddy, coughing, sneezing, wheezing and I just can’t pull myself together to get the kids up and out for the Louvre early, so we send our guests off on their own adventure, and I think they killed it!  We met up with them after we popped in at the Conciergerie to view the Marie Antionette exhibit.  Conciergerie is on of the French National Monuments, once a medieval palace, then a place of justice and most famously it was the cell for Marie Antoinette following the French Revolution.  This exhibit showed how her image has changed over time, and how she has had a surprising revival and modernization of character.  She is an icon all over the world.  From Japanese Manga to Hollywood fashion, her representation continues.  It was really a nice exhibit and even had trial papers and some of her articles from the 1790s.  We met up with our friends and viewed Sainte Chapelle, just next door. The stained glass windows and statues surrounding the chapel are amazing.  In 15 glass windows there are 1113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments telling much of the story of the bible.  I could make out a few scenes, but the windows are massive and high.  I wish we had secured a guide to make it more meaningful, but it was like being inside a jewelry box.  After, we metro-ed ourselves over to the Haussman area for a little shopping, site-seeing, and roof-top dining at Galeries Lafayette.  The kids were ready to get home because everything is more fun with guests in town…even just hanging out.  Raeanna and AST packed their bags and prepared for their 2nd leg…London!

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Day 57 Monday, October 21:  I must say, our travel has been exceptionally smooth, but I do hear of hiccups here and there.  Raeanna and Anna Stuart’s Eurostar train sat on the tracks for around 3 extra hours, really shortening their day in London.  And I had other friends who couldn’t get to the airport on the Metro because train routes were shut down.  So, I guess the word to the wise is to expect the unexpected when traveling.  But today, we are staying put and taking our mind on a learning adventure-trying to catch up from our days off.  For our first break of the day, the kids had the idea to each make up a game or two and keep score and crown a carnival winner.  Their games were so clever!  Mine was more like beer pong, without the beer, and it was lame compared.  I was still feeling poor, but this perked me up and we had a great time at our carnival.  It was a nice day out, too, so for our afternoon break, we got out and about in the neighborhood for a few minutes.  Then Carson made me soup and put me to bed, awe!  Oh, and I have another crazy story from earlier!  Geer and I are reading a book called Pax, which is all about a boy and his pet fox.  Today’s vocabulary related to the book had a list of animals and the name of their baby…Fox/Kit.  So, a little while later, we open our devotional and the start of the article talks about a kitten growing into a cat, a puppy growing to a dog, etc.  At this point, I jokingly add that a kit grows up to be a fox.  Geer couldn’t believe it, but I told him I added that myself:)  As I continued in the next line, though, it really did say that a Kit grows up to be a Fox!  I mean, what are the odds???  The devotional points to us and asks what we are growing into.  We are something now and we are growing into something else.  And did you know that a fry grows up to be a fish?  I wonder what I will grow up to be?

Day 58 Tuesday, October 22:  Still sick, still behind on school, still plugging away at it all.  But our friends, the McLaughlins, want to visit so we meet them at the Saint-Jacques Tower.  Sadly, we aren’t able to go up and see the view, but the kids don’t care!  The rip and roar and chase their tales around the tower.  We pop in a few shops, another beautiful cathedral and catch up.  We find ourselves at the Cognacq-Jay Museum, a free museum (FREEEE!!!).  The museum is inside a beautiful 18th century townhouse and contains a collection from the Cognacq-Jay family, founder of a department store in Paris.  The kids pick out items in each room that are interesting to them (this is Betsy’s idea, she’s a teacher, thank goodness!).  This is not a grand museum, but shows real collections and lifestyle in the 1800’s.  It was a nice afternoon and we are reminded of the blessing it is to have friends!

Day 59 Wednesday, October 23:  More school!  Gotta get these kids educated.  Geer has testing and he was so funny…asking for my help.  Am I smarter than a 4th grader?  I’m not sure I am.  Anyway, Raeanna and AST make it back from London, and they hunted down the Mason Pearson hairbrush that Carson was wanting.  Since that moment, you can find her brushing, brushing, brushing her hair!  We set out to shop a little, walking our way through Saint Germain area and come to another 17th century church, Eglise Saint Sulpice.  I believe this is the second largest cathedral in Paris, and it, like all the others, is really beautiful.  In the first bay chapel, there are 3 Delacroix murals done specifically for the church, after the revolution.  The most beautiful, to me, is the portrayal of Jacob wrestling with God’s Angel after he fled his home because of his betrayal.  Wrestling with God.  We wrestle the kids out and head over to Luxembourg for a quick tour before ending at La Select.  This was recommended by one of Raeanna’s neighbors, and it did not disappoint. In the same vein as Cafe de Flora, it’s a beautiful, light and airy, classic room.  My scallops and gnocchi were divine!  A quick Metro and we are resting up for a few more tourist spots before our friends head home.

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Day 60 Thursday, October 24:  We leave Raeanna to start the packing and we do something the kids have been asking me DAILY to do.  We rent electric scooters!  You just get the app, find a junky scooter abandoned anywhere on the road, scan the code and off you go!  We went early because I didn’t want to face too much traffic.  When I’m with really brave people, sometimes I get nervous.  When I’m the leader, sometimes I get a little crazy.  I’ve been telling the kids no (really, you are supposed to be 18 to even do this), but I totally wanted to!  I loved the speed, the wind through my hair.  The kids of course loved it, too.  We ride around for maybe 15 minutes and the bill comes to 25 euro.  Uhoh.  We get back to the apartment and prepare to visit Versailles!  We went earlier with Nan, but this time, we are planning to view a different part. So…we are getting close to the RER train (different from the metro we use all the time).  The view I have is that half of us hop on the train that could have been headed to Versailles when the doors begin to close.  Geer and AST were on the train, Raeanna was off the train and Carson and I were in-between, trying to decipher if this was the right train.  It physically closes on us.  Did I scream?  Yes I did.  Did I she-women the doors open so we could all get on?  Yes I did.  Did I have some help from the door open button that someone else hit?  Well, yes, that too.  Maybe I’m not as strong as I thought.  Anyway, we all miraculously get on just to realize shortly after that this is not the right train.  Mom fail.  We get off, get turned around, back to another stop, on another train and finally we make it!  Versailles is a bit other-worldly.  It’s like a yellow and gold explosion!  And the gardens are so massive, we barely even saw a portion of them.  We make the long, long walk to the Petite Trianon, the Grand Trianon, and the Queen’s Hamlet.  Each of these outposts were so interesting…a HUGE palace to get away from the even larger main palace (and to house a mistress), a  chateau as a gift to the King’s young bride, a play house-like compound with a working dairy, animal farm, gardens and English gardens everywhere.  For a while, it was said that Marie Antionette and her court would dress up like peasants and play around on the Hamlet (the real peasants didn’t appreciate this).  Later believe to be mainly a working farm and used to educate her children about nature in a way they would otherwise never have had the opportunity to learn.  At this point in the program, Geer and I realize that we only have a short while before he must continue his standardized testing.  I brought my computer for this purpose, but we can’t find any wifi.  So we  race over the river and through the woods to a restaurant at the outset of the gardens and set up shop.  Geer was so sincere in his dedication to do the testing and do it well.  I liked his commitment, and I enjoyed the break!  We finished up at Versailles with even more yet to see on a future trip sometime.  We actually get on the right train for our return and find a wonderful restaurant close to the apartment for our last meal (or so we thought).  I ordered the plate of the day, which came with a terrine.  I thought I knew what this was going to be, but I was wrong.  I’ve seen this around and felt sure this was one thing I just wouldn’t like.  It was like a cold, meatloaf of duck and chicken and sausage and organ meat and vegetables and egg all minced and molded together that have aspic laced throughout.  It sounds gross.  It looks gross.  It kinda smells gross. But it was not bad.  Tried it, check it off the list.  Goodbye forever.  For our last outing, we venture to the Arc de Triomphe.  I’ve seen it, sped around it, but never been up it.  The stairs are plentiful but the views are worth every step.  With 12 radiating avenues around it, the view is star-like, and of course the Iron Lady is sparkling.  The Arc honors those who fought and died in the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars, and a flame burns non-stop to honor the Unknown Soldier from World War I.  The Germans walked around it when they took Paris in 1940 and the Allies paraded around in 1944 when France was liberated.  I’m so glad we finally did this.  At home, we pack up our guests and are sad for their departure tomorrow, but know it starts the final countdown for us!

Day 61 Friday, October 25:  We wake up and get the girls all ready to leave, review the directions and start out the door when Raeanna gets a notice that her flight was cancelled.  What!?!  I couldn’t believe it. She gets on the horn with American after a lengthly hold to find that bad weather in Texas has things all out of whack, but that she should be good to go the next day.  So…we have a bonus day!  Yay!  Kids skip school work and we make the most of it.  We walk around the neighborhood a bit, try some Halva (have I mentioned this before?  It’s this Middle-eastern ground sesame seed fudge-like confection that we are digging).  Then we head to the Picasso Museum.  This has been on my to-do list for a while.  The building, a restored townhome, is just gorgeous with windows all around and a beautiful double staircase.  And the Picasso was…so square.  Almost cubed.  Get it?  Anyway, we learn a little about his life, his work, the start of the new artistic movement of the time.  Kids tried their hardest to make whole people out of the parts he painted while not boring themselves to death.  We finally feel like we did it justice and head out to let the kids run around in the park that borders the museum.  We eat at Breizh Cafe again.  There are so many places to try that I hated to revisit this restaurant for a second time, but it’s somewhere I knew the kids would enjoy, it was right in front of us, it would be fast, and delicious.  I wasn’t sorry!  After fueling up, we were ready for museum #2, the Pompidou.  The building has a crazy exterior that sticks out like a sore thumb to me, but it is a symbol of modernity and an icon for modern art.  The ductwork is all on the outside, color coded by function.  It looks like a vertical playground attached to a wall.  At the top, there is another great rooftop view of the city.  The museum itself has special exhibits and an interesting permanent collection.  We kind of whip through…not all that interested and a little nervous the kids would stumble onto something weird.  Plus, Raeanna has to get home and explain to her 8 year old that she’s not coming home as planned.  We are all a little nervous as they want and need to get home.  We go to bed praying to wake up to good travel news.  

Day 62 Saturday, October 26:  Raeanna and AST’s new flight is delayed…pushed back to the point that her connection won’t work.  Determined to get home, they pack it all up and head for the airport to get in front of someone and hopefully get home.  It finally worked and after a full day of traveling they finally got home!  After we get them off, we start playing catch up with school and laundry and such.  Then, I make a list of supplies we need for the kids Halloween costumes and run out to find what I can.  This is when I really yearn for Wal-Mart or Hobby Lobby.  I wish you could see our meager supplies.  But we persevere.  Of course I should have made these costumes earlier, but…we start at about 1.  We are supposed to be there at 3.  Yea, I know, it aint happenin!  Carson is pretty self-sufficient busily taping herself into a brown pillow from our sofa that we have covered in a Nutella Jar logo.  I measure and draw out the shape of a knife for Geer, we cut a hole for his head (and his hair) and try to cover it all in tin-foil.  Then the reinforcement is needed. More tape, more cardboard, more tin foil, more details.  Finally, we can’t wait any longer.  We call an Uber, but our neighborhood is busting at the seems with pedestrian strollers today and no cars can get through.  We start towards the destination on foot, with oodles of stares and smiles and laughs and a few photos of the Nutella girl and a boy in a strange shiny suit!  Once out of our district, we catch a cab the rest of the way and meet up with our friend, Will, who is dressed as a Crepe.  Together, they are the best Parisian snack money can buy!  The donut shop spearheads a trick or treat and costume contest on this adorable street, so we follow the map to all the locations and kids get a little candy.  Geer is a bit agitated with all the tin foil, but he keeps going.  We then Metro to the American Library and meet up with more kids for a trick or treat in that neighborhood.  The kids had a great time and I was able to catch up with some adults.  When our time slot arrives, we go through the Haunted Library together and I must say I did scream out loud a few times.  The premise was that on Halloween, characters come out of the books to haunt the library.  The teen Library members and other patrons were amazing actors, all decked out, and it was spooky!  They also showed some homemade horror clips and ended with a costume contest.  Can you believe our trio won 2nd place!  We were all so excited!  It was worth the $10 in duct tape to see the joy on their face.  Geer has been a bit blue about missing Halloween and has asked a few friends to trick or treat for him, haha!  So this was a good substitute.  We rode the bus home after de-taping Geer and fell into bed, cavities and all.

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Day 63 Sunday, October 27: It’s raining, again.  This is a bit of a hard rain.  We get ready for church then decide we don’t want to walk 15 minutes in the rain and decide on brunch instead (I know, this is terrible, but I am still under the weather.  That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it!).  We have a great sit-down brunch with croissant, chocolate chaud, fresh oj and yogurt and coffee.  At home, I crawl back into bed and together we watch a sermon from North Point with the question “Is it worth it?”  Is it worth it to be a Jesus follower.  This was a great sermon for me and really sparked some good conversation with the kids.  I loved it when Geer prayed at the end of the night and said, “God, we want to be all in for you,”  something they talked about in the sermon.  He’s a deep thinker under all that hair.  The kids did a little work and also just relaxed while I reflected.  Today, October 27, is our 18th wedding anniversary.  The kids were so happy with that.  They kept commenting, sadly, that lots of marriages don’t make it that long and they were glad we kept it up.  I’m glad, too.  So I was in a reflective mood.  Thankful for my friend of 24 years who came across the globe to spend time with us.  Thankful for my friends at home who keep checking in on us to make sure we are ok, keep us up to date and who WANT us to come home, but still water our plants and feed our cats and check the mail. Thankful for my friend ML who has had Penny for almost 3 months!  And they don’t even have a dog of their own!  Thankful for my family who, despite their own desires to have us close, are supportive of this and every venture I take.  Thankful for a business partner who can and will get it done while I’m away.  Thankful for this opportunity to be with my kids in a new experience and for everyday I have on earth.  And thankful for my marriage, for Edgar, and for the kids more now than ever before.  Edgar gets home from his own work trip, his visit to Paris, and a hunting trip at midnight my time, and he has Penny with him.  So all is almost just right tonight.  

Day 64 Monday, October 28: School, reading, blogging, planning, phone calling, cleaning, walking around the neighborhood, visit to the Lego store (Geer makes a Miles and an Amy lego person for a wedding gift-he can’t wait to be in their wedding in a few weeks).  We hit up a few more shops at Les Halles, pick up some groceries and head home for dinner and to watch The Phantom of the Opera!  This is a little out there for the kids. They do not love scary, and I don’t either!  But, we are going to tour the Opera in a week and I want them to have some background.  They do love music.  I guess they get that from me (hardyharhar).  Love me… that’s all I ask of you!

Day 65 Tuesday, October 29: Carson, baby doll that she is, has to do a project for her Social Studies class.  I volunteer to help.  Did I ever tell you that I spent a short stint as a paper-writer in college?  The fee was nominal, and I thought the papers were good….much better than the knuckle heads who hired me could ever do.  But, after a few submissions, I started getting the guilty feeling that this wasn’t right, and my computer broke and I had to spend hours on the phone with HP and the technical support was in India.  It was a nightmare.  I quit that job and went back to my English conversation tutoring with Korean students.  That was the best job I’ve ever had.  They already SPEAK English.  And I don’t speak Korean, or whatever language they use.  They just paid me to converse with them, can you believe that?!  We went for coffee or yogurt at TCBY and I got paid…to TALK!  I loved it so much that I decided I would do that as a career and thus my current position in sales.  See how it all works out?  I can really get myself down a rabbit hole.  Anyway, Carson and I spend 4 hours working on this Social Studies project. I think we are done and she tells me, “Mom, that was only the first concept of 7 concepts in the first chapter of two chapters of the first unit.”  I quit again.  Get me back to Seaside Shoes, please Lord!  Thankfully, I get a call from Kelly and have a good reason to pull away from Antebellum America (no offense, history teachers:))  I am so happy to catch up and get reports from home:). To be honest, we are starting to count down the days.  It’s getting cold here, and have I mentioned the rain?  And it’s dark since the time change and we miss everyone!  But we still have about 10 things left on the bucket list so we are committed to seeing it through and putting on a little more winter-weight.  We head out to check off one more…the Paris Mint.  It was a wonderful museum full of monies all through the ages, lessons on materials used for coins and printing methods.  I really enjoyed it, and having the McLaughlins with us made it even better! 

Day 66 Wednesday, October 30:  We start with our school for the day.  The French kids are all out of school for 2 weeks!  Kind of like a Fall break.  So, our choir is on hold during the holiday.  We find out about a Chocolate Expo, and that sounds like something that someone with my level of chocolate love should definitely do.  So we get our friend Will and head over to a convention center on the edge of town.  There are chocolate and bakery and sugar shops set up as far as the eye can see.  We will never get through all of it. In fact, after 1 isle, we are all feeling a little bit sick of chocolate.  Wait, who do I think I am?!  I’m no quitter.  I’ll never turn my back on my first love.  So, we stomach through most of the rest of the exhibit.  Some of my favorite items tried were a praline brioche, almond flour cookies (different from the shells to make the sandwich cookies…these are more substantial), fruit pate, a cake made with Tonka bean (apparently not a legal substance in the US), and the most luscious, truffle-like candy from Germany.  This was the only thing we bought.  I got a sizable container, thinking everyone who loves chocolate will love these.  The problem is that we love chocolate and I fear these will not make it home, so forget I ever even mentioned it!  Will is staying the night with us, so after dinner the boys retire for some mine-crafting and Carson and I watch My Girl.  Tear.  Gulp.  Swollen Eyes.  Seeing movies that I loved with my kids brings a new dimension to them.  Carson loved it, too.

Day 67 Thursday, October 31:  It’s Halloween!  We head over to the Magic Museum.  Wow!  It was so cool.  You enter at the street and walk down about a half level to reveal cave-like rooms linked together.  There was a great magic show, and the magician was a real funny, clever, but totally unassuming showman.  Videos and props and magic items from French history fill the museum, along with some early animation.  We wanted to find out the secret to sawing someone in half because they had the apparatus there.  But, the language barrier made this impossible.  We bring home the program for our local magician, Grey, and hope he can figure it out.  After, we meet Will’s mom, Betsy, and we walk for a while around town.  We finally find the Mona Lisa Dabbing sweat shirt Geer likes.  We also stumble upon an Odette shop, specializing in cream puffs.  Maybe they’ve always been a thing, but they seem to be having a resurgence here.  We try a sleeve and love the light, airy pastry filled with just enough cream and topped with the right amount of icing to make it perfect.  We part ways with our friends and grab some dinner.  At home, we finish the Phantom of the Opera and are left wondering about society’s ability to build up and tear down.  Hide your face so the world will never find you.